<HTML><HEAD></HEAD> <BODY style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER= -LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none"> The tuning pin is going to be hot no matter how you get it out.&= nbsp;  Turn it out slowly and the hot pin contacts the hole for a = longer time.   Turn it out quickly and less exposure to the h= ot tuning pin.   With a 1/2" drill it can't take more than a = couple of seconds to get it out....think about it!!!!! David I.   <DIV style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5p= x; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 3px solid; PADDING-TOP: 5px"> <HR> Original message From: "Avery Todd" <AVERY1@HOUSTON.RR.COM> To: P= ianotech <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG> Received: 9/8/2005 4:15:52 PM Subjec= t: Re: Removing tuning pins with the Milwaukee Drill Ross, I totally disagree! How else are you goin= g to get them out. Do it slow, and MUCH more heat builds up! <BR= >Avery At 01:08 PM 9/8/05, you wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite">If you spin tuning pin= s out, you're going to scorch the holes in the block.  You don't w= ant that. Ross White <DL> <DD>----- Original Message ----- <DD>From: <A href="mailto:pianotech@a440piano.net">William R. Mon= roe</A> <DD>To: <A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> <DD>Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 7:39 PM <DD>Subject: Re: Removing tuning pins with the Milwaukee Drill <= BR> <DD>Joe, <DD>So, does this imply that the friction that generates the heat simpl= y doesn't <DD>have enough time to build up, vs. the slow removal, which may be sl= ow, but <DD>long and drawn out, consequently producing more heat? <DD>Interesting...... <DD>Also, tried to email you about the keytop thing, but got rejected.&= nbsp; Anyway, <DD>I'll await receiving the keytop being sent to me first, and if it d= oesn't <DD>work, I'll let you know.  And, thanks. <DD>Respectfully, <DD>William R. Monroe <DD>----- Original Message ----- <DD>From: "Joe Garrett" <<A href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net"= >joegarrett@earthlink.net</A> > <DD>To: "pianotech" <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@= ptg.org</A>> <DD>Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 9:12 PM <DD>Subject: Removing tuning pins with the Milwaukee Drill <DD>Terry Peterson said: "I also would like to get opinions as to how f= ast, slow <DD>to remove them to <DD>avoid over-heating and/or scortching the pin block. I know the pins= WILL get <DD>hot no matter what, (I tested this by using the very lowest rpm pos= sible <DD>without stalling) but it seems to me that the main thing to avoid i= s <DD>"spinning" the pin in place when/if it stops rising outward during = removal. <DD>I try to use lowest rpms to remove each pin, then releasing trigger= when <DD>it's almost out, letting the drill slow to a stop at which point th= e pin <DD>drops out...ideally. thoughts? <DD>Terry, <DD>An interesting experiment: 1. Remove a tuning pin with a Brace and = Bit; <DD>immediately test it for heat. (it will be hottern' hell a first tou= ch.) 2. <DD>Remove a tuning pin with a Reversible Drill as slow as it will go. = Test it <DD>for heat. (it will be hot and getting hotter.) 3. Remove a tuning p= in with a <DD>Reversible drill running at/or around 600 RPM. Test it for heat. (I= t will <DD>only be warm, but will heat up rapidly as you hold it.DAMHIK!<G&= gt;) This <DD>phenomenon is kinda like Microwaving a spud.<G> The answer is= spin them out <DD>as fast as you feel comfortable with. I usually remove a whole set = in around <DD>15-20 minutes, using my 40 year old Wen Reversible Drill.<G><= BR> <DD>(It too, will spin the shop, if'n ya ain't careful!) <DD>Regards, <DD>Joe Garrett, R.P.T. <DD>Captain, Tool Police <DD>Squares R I <DD>_______________________________________________ <DD>pianotech list info: <A href="http://www.ptg.org/mailman/listinfo= /pianotech">https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives</A> </DD><= /DL></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BODY></HTML>