<DIV><B><I>Terry <terry@farrellpiano.com></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Mark,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you stain before filling grain, when sanding the dried grain filler, how do you avoid sanding through the shellac and/or stain? I seem to be grain-fill/stain challanged! Are you using water based grain filler?</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><STRONG>Hi Terry - </STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG>I have used both water-based filler and solvent-based filler, and either way, sanding the stuff without sanding thru the color IS a challenge that requires constant vigilance while sanding.  I wish I had a magic word or two to pass on to you, but I don't.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, sanding the filler in the exact same manner that you sanded the bare wood is a necessary starting point.</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>When you don't use grain filler, how many coats of top-coat do you find is required to get a level finish - or do you live with the grain depressions in this approach?</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><STRONG>Naturally all woods are not identical, but generally I would say that mahogany sanded to 220, dyed and sealed with at least a 2lb cut of shellac, will require app. 6 total applied coats of water-based material to fill the grain.  I just sprayed one last week where I stopped at 5 total coats of water-based, and there is the <EM>ever-so-slight</EM> amount of grain showing, a look I have warmed to of late.</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV> <DIV><STRONG>Mark</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><BR></DIV> <DIV><B><I>Greg Newell <<A href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">gnewell@ameritech.net</A>></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <P>Mark,<BR>So during the finishing process is when you re-add the missing <BR>filler and stain, right?<BR><BR>Greg Newell</P> <P><STRONG>Hi Greg -</STRONG></P> <P><STRONG>Yes.  First I would use dyes to get the color I want, then seal them with a wash coat of shellac.  If I AM gonna use filler that would be next, although oftentimes I don't use it.  Then, if necessary, a few very thin toning coats (tinted shellac, usually) on miscellaneous pieces to even up the color ( and, BTW, this does NOT have to make the finish look muddy, as you earlier suggested!), then on with the coats of finish.</STRONG></P> <P><STRONG>Mark Potter</STRONG><BR><BR><BR>At 06:06 AM 2/18/2005, you wrote:<BR>>Greg Newell <GNEWELL@AMERITECH.NET>wrote:<BR>><BR>>When those of you who do, refinish a piano do you remove the filler during<BR>>the stripping process?<BR>><BR>>Hi Greg - It is not a "goal", per se, for me. Whatever volunteers to <BR>>come out during the stripping process, as well as the rinsing and <BR>>scrubbing with maroon scotchbrite or #1 steel wool, is the extent of my <BR>>endeavors in this regard. I then sand with 150 - 220 and start the <BR>>finishing process.<BR>><BR>>No brass brushes for me...<BR>><BR>>Mark Potter<BR><BR>Greg Newell<BR>Greg's piano Forté<BR>mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net <BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives<BR></P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>