<HTML>In a message dated 12/1/2001 11:39:07 AM Pacific Standard Time, RNossaman@KSCABLE.com writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">David, I use the ubiquitous Kansas Straightedge (tm)  (string), and a flashlight. Low tech fits in my tool case easier. The tough part is getting around the beams with the two hands holding the string, while holding the flashlight with your third at an angle to cast a decent shadow. Maybe that head strap LCD light would work here strapped to a beam. I'll have to look into that and save having to fight tape and forearm cramps. In any case, I'd sure like to see SOME crown there, but seldom do in an old compression crowned board. Like I said, that's the area that goes flat first. Ron N        Hey Ron tie your string to the end of one of those long sticks that come in a Renner shank set. Then you may  use it like a needle to thread it thru the beams. That way you can hold the rubber coated flashlight between your teeth and actually hold a ruler with the other hand to measure the mostly non-existent crown. Best scenario is maybe 2.5mm crown in the unstrung piano in the octave 6 area but probably never had much more.. I'd consider that real good in a forced crown board. Besides although it's not much David it's probably 60 or 80 ft. crown/ sorry don't have the spec. sheet in front of me.   Ron ,as you say what did it sound like. If it sounded great before then No worries mate .......or hopefully</BLOCKQUOTE>                                                DALE ERWIN </HTML>