<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" = http-equiv=Content-Type> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    List,</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>One thing to bear in mind when = considering waterbase finishes:  does the manufactuer recommend spraying clear = over a black stain or undercoat to achieve "piano black"?</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If so, bear in mind that you could run = into problems, having to do with appearance and repairability.  Many = wb's look somewhat milky or cloudy when dry.  This is not easily seen over = mahogany or walnut, but can become obvious over black.  A clearcoat over = black is much more difficult to touch up than a solid black coating.  It may = be sometimes necessary to re-spray an entire section to get a good blend on = a touch up.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Some black wb's (and nitro lacquers, = too) go grey when they're rubbed.  This is a problem with polyester.  It = goes slate grey when rubbed with 4/0 steel wool or any abrasive rougher than high polish.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The most difficult challenge in = formulating PianoLac was creating a black that made a lustrous satin and a high = polish without going grey or looking like plastic.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Arthur Grudko</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>StarHawk Labs</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>