<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" = http-equiv=Content-Type> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.3105.105" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT size=2>List,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Since the thread has been keytops, I would = appreciate some input. I just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>The question I have is seems to be finding the = safest and best way to route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router = bit with guide and some use a sanding disc.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>What's the consensus out there?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Also what is the keytop cement of choice.  I = was introduced to using acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a = honey viscosity consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is = strong.  The downside is you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone = anywhere near the surface of the key or the finish will be = marred.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>So bring it on.  Would be interested in your = comments on learning the tricks of the trade.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Tom Servinsky,RPT</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" = title=jonpage2001@mediaone.net>Jon Page</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 13, = 2001 10:20 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Planer and = keytops</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3>At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you = wrote:<BR> <BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite">For most thicknessing I use a big table = saw, or Sears rotary planer in a<BR>radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude = but has carbide cutters, while<BR>the radial saw is faster, more powerful = and can stand sideways forces<BR>much better than most drill presses (and = 400m doesn't mean 200...). Most<BR>RAS can be adjusted more precisely = than I've encountered.<BR><BR>Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out I<BR>grind an angle so that the low edge = protrudes more. Increasing clearance<BR>by tilting the drill table very = slightly also seems to help. Feed slow,<BR>should work fine.<BR><BR>Adjustable = parallels for set up.<BR><BR>> electric planer<BR><BR>Do you mean a hand = held? I don't think it would work as such, there's so<BR>little surface, and = planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to<BR>invite = disaster.<BR>Clark </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>What I don't like about using circular saw = blades is the kerf it leaves at the end of the plastic.<BR>A router bit or = rotary planer can be set to remove only enough material for the new keytop<BR>to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job.<BR><BR>Regards,<BR><BR><BR><FONT size=3>Jon Page,   = piano technician<BR>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.<BR><A href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</A>jonpage2001<A href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</A><BR><A = href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" = eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</A><BR>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</FONT> </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>