<HTML>Matt, It seems like the thickness of the tape would make a difference in the h= eight of the keytop.  This would be a particular nuisance where you onl= y have to glue on either the head OR the tail.  Are you talking about a= whole keyboard? I was given much good information a few months ago on the same subject. =  Check the archives.  I'd say at least half of the people recommen= ded PVE-E glue, and some suggested using titanium dioxide(paint whitener) to= be certain that there was no bleed through of keytop color. The tape sounds easy, but how does it look and feel when you're done? Dave Stahl In a message dated 8/10/03 1:37:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, besen@comca= st.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-= LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> Anyone have any experience in using double-sided tape for reattaching iv= ory keytops?  I have tried 3M's Scotch carpet tape for this purpose, an= d it appears successful, so far.  During periods of high humidity both t= his summer and last, many of the keytops that have been reattached (epoxied?) by a = well- regarded piano restoration shop came off. Keytops that I reattached last= summer with the carpet tape (a very strong adhesive on a white plastic f= ilm) have remained attached.  I make sure the surfaces are clean, and us= e a small rubber roller to attach the tape first to the ivory, and then to the key= . I'd guess this works because the stack of adhesive and plastic film prob= ably allows a small amount of shear motion in the bond to tolerate the differ= ent humidity expansion rates of the ivory and wood. I'd appreciate any other thoughts on this; Thanks! - Matt</BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>