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<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000
size=3> I've found the Foredom miniature belt sander to be a better=
choice for both procedures being discussed. It very controllable especiall=
y on
a set of grand hammers without obstructions & it also works well on
uprights even in the bass. There are minimum clearances on uprights in the=
bass but still possible. I only hog off the largest amount of waste =
felt
& finish with various widths of sandpaper strips backed with packing t=
ape
for reinforcement.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV><FONT size=3> There are many grits available to work with as we=
ll.
Over all the foredom tool is a great toll.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=
=2><BR>>
Have you ever tried the hammer-routing/shaping attachement for the
Dremel<BR>> tool? Once you get the hang of it you can reshape a set of
total trash<BR>> upright hammers in ten minutes or so. No need to even =
do
any manual<BR>> filing/sanding afterwards. I wouldn't battle an old upr=
ight
without it!<BR>><BR>> Terry Farrell<BR><BR> Yes, I trie=
d it
a long time ago and couldn't figure it out. Tried it<BR>again a few
months ago and decided it's just not worth it. If
you're<BR>right-handed, you can do maybe half the bass section before your=
wrist runs<BR>into the 2nd action bracket. But at least in the bass,=
the
hammers are<BR>angled and you can get the tool perpendicular to the
hammer. But to do the<BR>second half of the bass section, even if yo=
u do
it left-handed, the angle of<BR>the hammers forces the body of the Dremel =
tool
into the dampers or other<BR>hammers.<BR> Same problem in the=
treble, but the angle is the opposite direction. If<BR>you hold it w=
ith
your right hand, the body of the tool is forced into the<BR>dampers. =
If
you hold it with your left, the action bracket's in the way.<BR>If the ten=
or
hammers aren't angled ("straight bore"), you can do the first<BR>half of t=
he
tenor section, then you run into the 3rd action bracket with the<BR>tool a=
nd
your right wrist. I'm just not dextrous enough with my left hand<BR>=
to
switch.<BR> But the main problem is that that guide just isn'=
t
all that great. With<BR>it or without it, it's just too easy to dig =
a
divot into the hammer. All it<BR>has to do is "catch" once, and,
whiizzjhoop!, there went a big chunk of<BR>hammer. Now ya gotta cut =
an
equal-sized piece of felt out of a scrap hammer<BR>and glue it in. J=
ust
kidding.<BR> Now on a grand it's a lot easier, but even there=
, I
just can't tell if <BR>I'm removing one layer or ten with<BR>the Dremel sa=
nder
drum.<BR> --David Nereson, RPT</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
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