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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi David,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>>That sounds like an ingenious way to do one key, but =
unfortunately
there are 88 which have the same problem...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><shrug></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I was mostly suggesting a solution for =
Terry's job,
in which there are about a half dozen difficult keys. I happen to =
own the
keys in question! ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Here's an idea that is totally untried =
and
untested, but definitely cheap:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How about black fiber washers? =
Some nut and
bolt supplier may be able to supply these things pretty cheaply. =
They seem
pretty tough, more so than hardwood (?), and I imagine they're quite
durable. I don't know the material, but they should be gluable -- =
possibly
with Titebond, and most certainly with epoxy. Perhaps one could =
get a bag
of, oh, a couple hundred of them for a buck or two, and ream the =
center
hole to the needed size with a sharp bit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How to cut the recess in the =
keystick? Use
a pilot-point drill bit, chucked in a drill press. =
Pilot-point bits,
made by DeWalt, I believe, cut flat-bottomed holes -- with a demple =
in the
middle (the pilot point). Clamp the key firmly, and make all the =
necessary
adjustments to limit travel to the desired depth. The key can be
positioned in the clamp with a removable balance rail pin, which would =
extend
from the clamp, through the keystick. Once in position, clamp, and =
then
remove the pin. Drill, glue your un-reamed fiber washer, and move
on. After the glue is dried/cured, ream the entire set to the =
correct
size.</FONT></DIV>
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