<DIV>Does this blaster require a collector system or dust removal , a special booth. Are you talking blasting actions, as they are, or totally stripped down to the rails. How does this work. Does it take all the black and grunge and discoloring of the action parts....give me MMOORREE!! Dean May <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <META content=Word.Document name=ProgId> <META content="Microsoft Word 10" name=Generator> <META content="Microsoft Word 10" name=Originator><LINK href="cid:filelist.xml@01C5165C.EDC266F0" rel=File-List><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:SmartTagType name="State" namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagType><o:SmartTagType name="City" namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagType><o:SmartTagType name="place" namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagType> <STYLE> st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } </STYLE> <STYLE>  </STYLE> <DIV class=Section1> Hi Jack,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I use a siphon feed sand blaster. You can pick one up for about $20 at farm supply stores or Harbor Freight type tool sellers. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> For abrasive, I use 150 Garnet mesh, a very fine garnet sand purchased from Abrasive Products, (317) 485-7701, in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place><st1:City>Fortville</st1:City>, <st1:State>Indiana</st1:State></st1:place>. It ships in a pail of about 100 lbs and costs about 50 dollars. It will last quite awhile. Judicious experimentation will allow you to use it to clean most action parts making them look like new. It will even clean hammer felt making them look better. It will also chew right through any strings used to anchor springs in a heartbeat and blow up damper felt.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Be sure to take the keys off the key frame so you don’t pit the key pins with abrasive. Best to avoid the bushings unless you are planning on rebushing. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Experiment on old upright actions in your graveyard. You’ll quickly get the hang of it.  Use compressed air to blow the sand out when you are done. I’ve used this procedure for 15 years now with great success. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Thump (Gordon Stelter) has another cleaning method that is intriguing. It involves soaking things in some concoction. I haven’t been able to overcome my built in resistance to soaking wood parts in fluid to try it. But the results are beautiful. It should be in the archives within the last few months. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Blessings,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <DIV> Dean<o:p></o:p> Dean May             cell 812.239.3359<o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272<o:p></o:p> Terre Haute IN  47802<o:p></o:p></DIV> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jack Houweling Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 3:00 AM To: pianotech Subject: cleaning keys <o:p> </o:p> <DIV> I am trying to clean the wood on my keys. (The dirt on the top)  I have tried a brass brush on my Dremel tool and my mouse sander with not bad results, but I would like it better. I have seen photos of before and after with the keys looking new. Is there any other techniques or  cleaning solutions.   <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Jack Houweling   <o:p></o:p></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> Richard the "Piano Guy"