<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV>Using accelerator on thin CA can be a = little dangerous. The CA sets up almost instantaneous, get's extremely hot, and = emits a toxic smoke. Don't let accelerator get to any glue that may be on your = fingers, and don't get near the fumes. Be careful.</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr>-----Original Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of TysonPiano@aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 5:12 = AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: CA update procedure </DIV>Hi Joe Goss, Joe Garrett, and List,    I'm George Tyson, Associate = Member in Southern Oregon's Rogue Valley Chapter.  I'm curious about = the results of using accelerator when CA gluing tuning pins.  I've = CA'd two spinets (not together) using accelerator on one and no accelerator on = the other.  Both pin blocks tightened up nicely.  I haven't = followed up yet on second tunings for either of these pianos.    Joe = Garrett: When you CA'd the German Upright did you use = accelerator?     Has this List come to any sort of agreement regarding = whether to use or not to use accelerator?  I looks like Joe Goss says no = to activator.  When I've phoned the Dryburgh company I've been told = yes to accelerator.             George Tyson, Klamath Falls, OR    In a message dated 1/26/04 8:13:13 AM Pacific = Standard Time, imatunr@srvinet.com writes: <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px" TYPE="CITE">Hi Calin, and list, This is a update on ideas in  = my use of CA glue in treating loose tuning pins. Great, If you use = the CA on a grand be sure to take the action out and cover the bed with = news print ( paper ). Also the glue will run a lot so the use of a very fine = needle ( I use my insulin micro fine needles ) will put the glue exactly = where you want it to be. Use a paper towel near where you are working = as each time you move the needle there may be some drips that go where = you do not want them. Also a two pass approach is best just like in tuning. = And in sections of perhaps 24 pins. You may want to mark the top of = the pins with chalk for each section until you get the idea of where you = are going to go next. Treat a section at a time with the first and go back = over with a second pass. Look for the welling up of the glue to let = you know to stop but also as a warning that the glue is going down a = crack. In this case stop and go on to the next pin letting the glue set up = a little before adding more.` You should be able to start tuning the = instrument when the last pin is treated as the moisture in the wood and = friction of pressure will cause the glue to set up a little. Full cure in a = day or so without any activator. If you do an upright you may want the = instrument to be on its back, but I have treated a few pins with the needle = with the instrument standing. It is a pain in my back to do it this way = but a few pins are not too bad. Joe Goss </BLOCKQUOTE> </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>