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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Jon </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>All you have to do is rough up the =
lacquered side
with sandpaper,at the area that you are going to glue .Sounds like you =
are using
different elkskin than me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Murray</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jonpage@mediaone.net =
href="mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net">Jon Page</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, December 17, 2000 =
6:57
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Research:leather =
covered
hammers</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3><BR>Glue will not hold well over time on =
the
smooth side of leather. If the suede<BR>side needs to be on the =
outside, then
both sides need to have the suede texture.<BR><BR>Jon =
Page<BR><BR>At
06:46 PM 12/17/2000 -0700, you wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite type="cite">Hi Diane<BR>Why do you say that =
the
deerskin is the best ?What others have you tried?Has<BR>the leather =
been put
on with the rough side in or out.?It should be out.When<BR>glueing =
the
leather on it has to be done in 2 steps.It is not glued onto =
the<BR>entire
hammer but only at the base of the hammer felt and hammer
molding<BR><BR>Regards<BR>Murray<BR>----- Original Message =
-----<BR>From:
"Diane Hofstetter" <dianepianotuner@hotmail.com><BR>>
Dave,<BR>><BR>> I am fortunate to live in a =
town
with a tannery. If I could understand<BR>> better what to =
ask for,
I could probably drive over one afternoon and get<BR>it rather than =
start up
a new account with Jahn in Germany and wait and
wait...<BR>><BR>> I have tried several different =
kinds of
leather from that tannery so far<BR>> and so far the deerskin has =
been
the best, but it's very mellow. Perhaps<BR>if> I can get =
some of
the leather made by Herzog, the folks at the tannery<BR>would> =
know what
it is.<BR>><BR>> The ideas I put forth on =
pianotech as a
research arm can best be<BR>> illustrated by this. If we
collectively can find what the best materialis<BR>> and even find =
a
domestic source, then anyone who has the need of<BR>maintaining>
instruments at a higher level with less effort can benefit from all
our<BR>> efforts.><BR>> Thank you for your
information!<BR>><BR>> =
Diane<BR>><BR>><BR>>
>From: Dave Doremus =
<algiers_piano@bellsouth.net><BR><BR>>
>>The original leather on the hammers was European<BR>>
>>doeskin........etc.<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> =
>Murray is
right, and the best leather I've used is from Herzog in<BR>> =
>Germany,
I believe called hirsch and elsch, correct me if I'm wrong.<BR>>
>Stretch and thickness are important as is consistency in flesh
vs<BR>> >skin side. Do not use American supply house buckskin, =
it's
too coarse<BR>> >and heavy. I think that Jahn will supply what =
they
call hammer<BR>> >leather which comes from Herzog and should =
be better
than the<BR>> >American stuff. I dont think anything currently =
made
(and there are<BR>> >those much more knowledgable than me who =
can add
to this Im sure) is<BR>> >even close to what you actually find =
on old
pianos, the whole leather<BR>> >making process is so different =
now. It
is fairly easy to use, just<BR>> >common sense, =
consistency and
a careful hand. Malcolm Bilson had a<BR>> >blue suede on his =
piano
hammers for some time that was very<BR>> >successful, so =
experimenting
can be fun. Just use hide glue so you<BR>> >can recover from =
any
mistakes.<BR>> ><BR>> >--<BR>>
>Dave</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>