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Jonathan,<br>
<x-tab> </x-tab>I can
accept that this is effective for the bushing cloth around a center pin
but what does it do to the bridseye?<br><br>
Greg Newell<br><br>
<br><br>
At 01:32 PM 1/25/2003, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">Dave,
we used to use in the shop what we called the lazer tool<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">If youd like Ill try to find
the plans for it (or someone else might already have some)<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">Basically, it is a pair of
tweezers with low voltage running through them. You pinchthe
tweezers over the ends of the pin, and vuala! Youve loosened
it. The current through the pin causes it to heat up, and thereby
presses the felt inside, almost like ironing it. <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">I know I know, it has nothing
to do with lasers, but thats just what we called it! (because of
the hum it created)<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">But I tell ya, I never have had
the effects wear off (seems to be stable), and Ive found no better way
short or repining everything to fix a whole batch of tight pins.<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">Anybody else with such
experience?<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080">Jonathan Finger
RPT.<br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2 color="#000080"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="tahoma" size=2>-----Original Message-----<br>
<b>From:</b> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
[<a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" eudora="autourl">mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Piannaman@aol.com<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, January 24, 2003 10:05 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> pianotech@ptg.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> CLP and Styran<br>
</font><br>
<font face="Times New Roman, Times"> <br>
</font><br>
<font face="arial" size=2>Ladies and gents, <br><br>
I went out on a service call last week to deal with a rental piano that
had sticky keys. It was a Kawai console that was in a room
approximately six feet from an open window. It IS January, and even
though this is California, there was a substantial amount of cool, damp
air blowing in from outside. After a brief and kindly lecture about
the evils of drafts and temperature/humidity fluctuation, I set to work.
<br><br>
There were many sticking keys and sluggish hammers. It was tight
centers, so I figured, hey, CLP will do the trick. I was
wrong. For whatever reason, there was no noticeable improvement in
the sluggishness. I assume that none of the excess fluid gets absorbed by
the plastic as it might get absorbed by wood. Anybody know for
sure? <br><br>
I reamed a few flange bushings and replaced some corroded pins and the
situation was resolved, but a less time-consuming solution would be
desirable.. Anybody got an answer, and/or a lubricant that might
work with Styran? <br><br>
Dave Stahl<br>
</font><br>
---<br><br>
Checked by AVG anti-virus system
(<a href="http://www.grisoft.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</a>).<br>
Version: 6.0.435 / Virus Database: 244 - Release Date:
12/30/2002</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Greg Newell<br>
<a href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</a></body>
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