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<font size=3>I have a few Plexiglas blocks with 6 bridge pins mounted in
for different<br>
pin groupings and use this as a punch once the center and front
lines<br>
are established. I first drill straight down enough to start the hole
with a<br>
'numbered bit' then come back and drill at an angle. This avoids
drifting.<br>
<br>
Jon Page<br>
<br>
<br>
At 08:45 PM 6/13/99 -0500, you wrote:<br>
><br>
>>Here's what I've been doing. I've been laying out the
pattern on the fresh<br>
>cap, marking it fist with a pencil mark, and then with a very sharp
awl (not<br>
>deep, just a mark I can see, perhaps 1/32" deep), and proceeding
to drill<br>
>with the standard drill bit from Apsco, by hand.<br>
>---------<br>
>>Brian Trout<br>
><br>
><br>
>I have tried brad point, and hand sharpening bits to steeper angles,
but<br>
>have settled on my regular old set of number drills. I use an old
nail set,<br>
>ground down to just under the diameter of a #6 pin, and pointed a
little<br>
>steeper than the grind on a standard jobbers bit. I punch the bridge
top to<br>
>the depth of the point, maybe 1/16". The bit centers in the
punch mark for<br>
>me better this way than anything else I've found (making no claim
to<br>
>anything like perfection). If there is a better way, I'd sure like to
know<br>
>about it too.<br>
> Ron <br>
> </font><br>
<br>
<div>Jon Page, Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
<a href="mailto:jpage@capecod.net" EUDORA=AUTOURL>mailto:jpage@capecod.net</a></div>
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