<html> Hi Kevin,               The approach that I use in the field if I am without my damper timing Jig, and using the tray to regulate timing. 1. Draw a horizontal pencil line across the end sample hammers of each section, at half the blow distance, down from the crown. 2. Keep adjusting the pedal nut until the damper just starts to move, as the  line becomes level with the adjacent hammer crown. 3. Remove action and re position the damper wire in the underlever. 4. Reinstall action and check timing. 5. Pay close attention to the tips of wedge damper felt for  clearance of all strings, trim tips as required. 6. If you are happy with results, remove action and do the rest of the dampers to samples. 7. Adjust sustenudo system. 8. Re adjust damper tray timing, there should be at least 1.5mm from the bottom of the tray and the dags, and 1mm lost motion from the tray to the under levers. Hope this may help Regards Roger At 05:49 PM 6/8/02 -0700, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>    Matt, what I do is perhaps the easiest, and usually gets me perfect results. ( I like what Roger had to say about installing new tray felt)      What I do when I want to re-set damper timing, like when the dampers are almost down on the key ends, and lifting immediately, is to go under the piano and adjust the pedal rod nut up a bit. Then I come back up, put my finger on the top of a damper (lightly) and depress the key. The damper will stop the hammer rise where it contacts the back of the key. This is how I check the timing. I just raise the pedal rod nut until the damper timing is at one third to one half blow distance. Then I pull the action, loosen all the damper screws, lift the underlevers, making sure they're free. Then you can tap the dampers lightly down into position, re-tighten the screws, and re-regulate the pedal nut. After correcting the ones that inevitably twist upon tightening the screws, you're basically done. You'll inevitably run into some that are a little tight on the wire, but not bad enough to run a drill bit down into. just lift the underlever up on the wire, and after the dampers are down in position, tap the underlever down on the tray lightly.     All you're really doing is setting the timing to the same thing that will be lifting the dampers; the tray.     The only problem with this in a Steinway is that often the tray is not level. It will end up with a damper timing that's earlier in the bass and later in the treble, which is the opposite from what I'd really like. I just did this the other day, and after about a half hour's work, they all lifted perfectly with the pedal. It's a really good technique. Richard Davenport taught me this.  I've probably corrupted his technique, so if anyone has a problem with how I described it, blame me, not Richard.         Kevin E. Ramsey <a href="mailto:ramsey@extremezone.com">ramsey@extremezone.com</a> <dl> <dd>----- Original Message ----- <dd>From: <a href="mailto:ptuner@optonline.net">Matt Wynne</a> <dd>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a> <dd>Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 3:04 PM <dd>Subject: Adjusting dampers to tray <dd>Greeting esteemed colleagues: <dd>I will be reassembling a damper system in an old S&S grand.  It is one of <dd>those systems that was born without regulating screws on each underlever <dd>for adjustment to the lift tray.  Is there any efficient way to adjust them <dd>so that they all lift in unison with the pedal?  I'm aware of the old <dd>method using center rail punchings, or something similar, as shims, but <dd>there must be a better way.  Any advice would be appreciated. <dd>Thanks, <dd>-Matt Wynne</blockquote> <x-sigsep></x-sigsep> </dl>Roger</html>