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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>My formula recently has been the System Three epoxy
colorant. This is a stiff, opaque paste, designed to work with =
epoxy
resins. Two cautions: The color slows the hardening time
considerably, renders the epoxy less brittle, and too much will prevent =
it from
hardening altogether. (at least on a non-geologic time scale). =
Also, the
color tends to weaken bond strength and the epoxy’s ability to =
flow and
expel air. I usually start with a batch of clear epoxy to wet the =
crack
and fill to the bottom. I have used them with West Systems resin =
and slow
hardener, and I would assume they work fine with System Three’s =
own
products.</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I have purchased the paste in yellow, brown, and most
importantly, white. I believe they also make red, which would =
probably be
handy in tiny amounts to “orange” up the mix. Just =
adding the
colors makes too deep a saturation long before the desired level of =
opacity is
reached, so start with white. With a semi-translucent white base, =
much less
of the deeper colors are needed. Experiment with how much, but =
less is
definitely better. I add the smallest amount of paste necessary to =
do the
job. A batch that won’t cure would be a real disappointment, =
and I
disclaim all responsibility for such an outcome.</span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Even with the color, this stuff will migrate. I =
have
come within an inch or so of the end of a crack that diminished to zero =
width,
and have had it wick to the very end. It does tend to trap air =
bubbles,
so be careful mixing and actively squeegee it in over its entire pot
life. Tapping the board at intervals seems to =
help.</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>The photo shows an unfinished board with two filled
cracks. As was mentioned earlier, check color against a wet board =
for a
closer match. These did match quite well when =
finished.</span></font></p>
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style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Like many others on the list, I’m not trying to =
make
cracks disappear, or pretend they never happened. But they should =
still
be pretty to look at with all your plate work, shiny pins, and that =
expensive
decal. If making them somewhat attractive really weren’t an
objective, we’d color them blue!</span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>David V. Anderson, RPT</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Waukesha</span></font><font size=2 =
face=Arial><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>, </span></font><font =
size=2
face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>WI</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span =
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'> </span></font></p>
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