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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hello List and Matthew =
Todd</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>First here's what David I =
said:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>1st you really need the wire broken at the pin, which doesn't =
usually
happen. This will give you plenty of wire to work =
with...<BR>push
the wound portion through the agraffe. I like to work from =
the tail
end on this piece...leaning over the curve. With the round =
needle
nose or better yet vice-grip (which I haven't mastered) make the bend to =
the
left and loose, i.e. with a gap. The end of wire needs to be above =
the
plane of the wire. With the new wire to be spliced =
on (plenty
long!!!) make a bend to the right and tight. Turn the piece =
around
the snap it onto the wound string. pushing the new wire up =
until it
pops over the left and loose bend end and goes through the =
loop. You
may need to push the right and tight loop over the wound portion just be =
careful
not to damage the windings. Now pull the spliced piece until =
you
have the classic tied knot. Squeeze the bends with a needle =
nose
pliers and ship off excess, measure to tuning pin and bring it up to
pitch. It will either immediately fall apart or tighten
up.<BR><BR>David I.<BR><BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now here is what =
I
do:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>It doesn't really matter where the =
break is -
although, as David says, it is best to have plenty of wire to work with. =
Ideed I
have been successful in repairing one-of-a-pair where it was needed to =
remove
some of the copper covering to effect the new knot. It is a "reef" knot, =
by the
way. To experiment do as David suggests - using some malleable wire for
practice. Fence wire is OK for this. Here comes the recipe:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Take the broken end in one hand. Using =
a pair of
very strong, but small, round-nose pliers create a "shepherds crook" of =
that
wire. It is important that it looks like the figure "Omega" but with =
straight
parallel ends.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now take the crook in a pair of =
vise-grips (though
I use duck bill pliers so I can see what I'm doing) and with the strong =
round
nosed bend over the looped part of the crook so it presents a 45 =
degree
angle to the wire.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next take the new piece of wire you are =
to splice
(or tie) on. This MUST be the same diameter as the broken string. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now make a "shepherds crook" of this =
and bend over
the looped part of this also.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>What you have now is two halves of a =
reef
knot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>These must now be interlaced into the =
classic reef
knot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>And there you have it! Hey =
presto!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have been successful wire wire guages =
up to the
thickest core in this - so don't lose heart! It <EM>can be
done!!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Finally you need to heartily pull the =
two parts of
the knot together - which is easy for the hitch end is still on its =
hitch. Use
the vise-grips or Mole wrench for this.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Good luck</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael G.(UK)</FONT></DIV>
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