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<DIV>In a message dated 10/23/2003 11:19:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time, michae=
l@gambles.fsnet.co.uk writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue =
2px solid"><FONT face=Arial>Hello RicB<BR>It would be very important to se=
t down the criteria for measurement of<BR>soundboards. That must be the star=
ting point. If everyone who wants to<BR>partake in this research takes all t=
he stipulated points for measurements<BR>then there might be some realistic =
steps taken. Be sure to make the names of<BR>these points international!..;-=
)<BR>Regards<BR>Michael G (UK)<BR>----- </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040> =
<FONT size=3><STRONG>Michael, Ric Glenn</STRONG></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3><STRONG> &=
nbsp; Well, Michael, I don't know if you'd call it research. List you p=
roposed on measuring things & observations are really probably alre=
ady outlined in the journal & are just some of the measurements all soun=
dboard installers use. </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
I.E. Measuring string heights, Plate height, bass & treble 88, mark the =
front corner of the plate & measure the distance fore & aft in mm to=
the case side. These locate the plate. Note any odd things about the bridge=
s. I.E. inadequate side bearings, strings not going straight to the hitch pi=
ns, funky notching angels you don't wish to duplicate. Measure down to the t=
op of the plate at the bosses. This allows you to set the height of you dowe=
ls later if you use them.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Measure the string scale. If funky after unstringing measure string lengths =
& crunch the no.s. Often note 88 is too short for decent tensions in the=
last section. You may want to move the bridge as on many older 1800s S&=
S grands.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Note the angle of the bridge top to the board. I don't often do this b=
ut every piece of info can be helpful.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; (Observation)Look at the thickness of the board thru the action cavity=
at the belly rail & see how it tapers. (Mental note)</FONT></STRONG></D=
IV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Observation) Any crown left any bearing left. Does the bearing string still =
touch the bridge now the strings are removed. is the bridge below the string=
plane?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Pull the plate. Pull the bridge pins. make a GOOD pattern noting hole side n=
otch cut. Use a bridge pin bit drilled straight down thru the bridge to loca=
te the mylar pattern. Place mylar (I use 10 mil) over bridge and tap no. 6 p=
in thru mylar. It make a cleaner hole than drilling thru it.</FONT></STRONG>=
</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
I always measure at least first and last string lengths on the long bri=
dge & bass bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Very important: Bridge location markers.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; I do this 2 ways. I drill straight down. straight is very important th=
ru the top of the bridge at not 88 with a 3/16 bit and thru the board & =
into the belly rail. This will help locate the top of the bridge very precis=
ely. I also do the same in the tenor end, drilling into a beam if possible. =
I also take direct measurements with a metric ruler to the side of the case =
at each end of each bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
I also measure the distance from the no. 88 bridge pin hole to the sid=
e of the case & stretcher. This eliminates the possibility of getting pa=
ttern located wrong. There are other ways. Rebuilders please chime in.=
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Drill out dowels remove treble cap screws. Now the fun part. It's time=
to knock the board out</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Any body tired yet? More later. going to work</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Later--Dale</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3></FONT>=
</STRONG> </DIV></BODY></HTML>