<HTML>In a message dated 6/18/2002 5:29:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, rinkyd@pacbell.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hi Phil</BLOCKQUOTE>     I use the small Japanese pull saw by shark.  I do all my boring tapering tailing prep and hammer weights prior to hanging. Once hung they don't come off again. I turn the action over backwards with the strike point against the table. I then clamp on a shank clamp with a facing of rubber or cork and clamp them tight. I then use a dedicated to shank trimming only blade and simply saw at and angle or as straight as I can slowly sawing thru one or more shanks at a time until all are amputated. Then I move the jig etc.and do the rest. The small amount of shank left is easily removed with a small belt sander with the shanks propped up as close to the shank as possible. This whole procedure gives a factory looking finish job and the belt sanding can smooth up small irregularities in the tail alignment that occur in the hanging process.   It takes about 15 minutes. I don't however like this job but I know of no other way that suits my protocol. Lately I'm not likin a lot of jobs but hey it's summer.    Best--- Dale Erwin    PS tthe rotary dremel is scary to me I've tried it. I like my fingers.       <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> I would love to hear some of the methods for trimming excess grand shanks. It's always been a struggle for me. I've used hand jigsaws, small drum sanders, flexblades from Bill Spurlock, etc. Years ago I had a dremel rotary saw blade that worked well, but it seems to be no longer available. How do you do it? Thanks Phil Frankenberg Chico Ca.</BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>