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<DIV><FONT size=2>Get two blocks of wood measuring exactly 7" =
high. Place
them on the soundboard at opposite edges of whatever part of the piano =
you want
to measure. Put a straight edge across the top of the two blocks =
and at a
point midway between the blocks, measure the distance from the bottom of =
the
straightedge to the soundboard. Subtract that number from 7" and =
the
amount left over is the amount of crown.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>David Love</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=collin.s@skynet.be =
href="mailto:collin.s@skynet.be">Stéphane
Collin</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> December 18, 2002 4:41 =
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Bridgetop =
Extravaganza
Revisited</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hello Stephen</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Am I alowed to ask a kind of stupid =
question
?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How do you measure the crown on the =
top of the
board ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>(I am interested)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Stéphane Collin.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=sbellieu@mindspring.com
href="mailto:sbellieu@mindspring.com">Stephen Bellieu</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, December 19, =
2002 1:00
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Bridgetop =
Extravaganza
Revisited</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Greg,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> It's definitely =
quartersawn. I
don't think it's a candidate for recapping for two reasons. =
The board
is dead flat across the bass bridge and lower tenor bridge (as =
measured from
the top and confirmed on the bottom). Also I have learned the =
piano
was purchased by the client new some 16 yrs ago. I have no =
intention
of condemning this piano. It sounded ok before. Not =
spectacular
bass but I have heard much worse. I'm anticipating tight =
new
bridge pins are going to contribute to tonal improvement up
higher.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> I'm wondering about the =
bearing in the
bottom of the piano. How it was originally set. Strung
it showed a full 1.5 deg across the bass bridge and almost =
nothing on
the bottom two feet of the tenor bridge.(also no front bearing =
in both
of these locations) Is this what flattened out the tail ? =
If I relieve some of the bearing across the bass bridge will =
this
improve the situation? I'm used to seeing older pianos with =
little
bearing on the bass bridge. Opinions?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Steve Bellieu</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>P.S. Thanks for all the welcomes. I =
know some
of you and recognize lots of other names from Journal articles and
tips.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- =
</DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=gnewell@ameritech.net =
href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">Greg
Newell</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December =
18, 2002
12:32 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Bridgetop =
Extravaganza
Revisited</DIV>
=
<DIV><BR></DIV>Steve,<BR><X-TAB>  =
; </X-TAB>Now
that you've decided to pull the plate I would strongly recommend =
simply
recapping the bridge with quarter sawn material unlike the flat =
sawn junk
you'll be removing. I' ve never seen quarter sawn material dented =
as badly
as you describe, even by well meaning newbies with a hammer and
screwdriver. A couple runners on the router and skin off the old =
cap. Put
on a quarter sawn cap of good solid material. Re - drill, notch =
and
restring. I'll lay odds you'll be greatly pleased with the
result!!!<BR><BR>Greg Newell<BR><BR>P.S. Welcome to the
list!!!<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>At 05:13 AM 12/18/2002, you =
wrote:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite"><FONT
size=2> Hi All, </FONT><BR><FONT =
size=2>Just
joined, first post to this or any other group. =
Serendipitous
timing, just read all the recent bridgetop/ bridgepin =
posts. Have
a 1985 Stwy D in the shop for action overhaul and =
restring. I
thought I was noticeing something funny about the bridges but =
was in
denial until I started taking all the teardown notes. The =
plain
wire strings have been pounded (seated) into the bridge so that =
at the
edges there is more wire diameter below the bridge top than =
above
it. When viewed from the side the wire makes a pronounced =
curve up
onto the bridge and down again out the rear making accurate =
component
readings impossible to do from on top of the wire. It was =
showing
negative front bearing until I realized what was happening and =
started
using the actual bridgetop as reference. Situation is most =
severe
at capo sections and diminishes down to what looks like normal =
grooves
to me under the bass strings. Deflection in strung piano =
is .5 deg
at bottom of low capo, 1-1.5 deg rest of capo sweeping up =
to 2.5
deg at note 88. There is .250" crown at low capo. =
(measured
from top of board) </FONT><BR><FONT =
size=2> Is
it possible this condition is due to the quality of the capping
material? I usually work on much older =
instruments. I
have never seen string cuts like this. Also the various =
pressures
have caused dead wood to swell up and check here and there =
around the
terminations. Again I'm not used to seeing this. =
Inspection
of the pins under magnification shows the string resided in two =
distinct
locations. My theory: Pre- and Post =
Pounding.
There are also a lot of unexplainable nicks on the side of the
pins. The pins pull out easily. No cracks to speak =
of.
This is an institutional piano which has probably been in =
Southern
California its whole life.</FONT><BR><FONT =
size=2>
What I'm thinking about doing is similar to what Dale Erwin just =
posted. I've never done the epoxy bridge thing but I'm =
familiar
with the nasty stuff. I'm imagining thickening it enough with =
colloidal
silica so it won't run down the notches or too much into the =
holes and
applying it with a small spatula. I want to fill those =
deep
grooves (at least on the speaking side) and then sand the top
flat. If I put the stuff on in the morning can I =
pare/renotch and
redrill at the end of the day before it gets too hard and while =
I can
still find the original holes? </FONT><BR><FONT
size=2> Looking forward to peoples
responses.</FONT><BR> <BR><FONT size=2> =
I want to
stop using the misnomer "string seating" in favor of wire =
straightening
(or something similar) which is what I do at a low lateral =
angle
(around the bridges anyway). I have never been convinced =
of the
need of downward tapping pressure at the bridges. For some =
reason
this is one of the first things new technicians are taught and =
the
thought of them going around with little hammers and pounding on =
pianos
scares me. We straighten wire for control of damper and =
hammer
contact and for quick stabilization of new strings. =
Perhaps having
the wire come straight out of the bridge helps the string to =
vibrate in
a more perpendicular plane even. I don't really =
know. After
you take a few pianos apart you find that even in a negative =
bearing
situation the angled pins hold the string tight to the =
bridge. If
there is so much negative bearing that they don't then no amount =
of
pounding will hold them there. But I guess that is another =
thread. Right now I need help getting out of this
mess. I have finally accepted I have to pull the =
plate. So
much for the quick restring of a fairly new instrument.
</FONT><BR> <BR><FONT size=2>Thanks, Steve
Bellieu</FONT><BR><BR>---<BR><BR>Checked by AVG anti-virus =
system (<A
href="http://www.grisoft.com/"
eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</A>).<BR>Version: =
6.0.427 /
Virus Database: 240 - Release Date: =
12/6/2002</BLOCKQUOTE><X-SIGSEP>
<P></X-SIGSEP>Greg Newell<BR><A =
href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net"
eudora="autourl">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</A>
<P>
<HR>
<P></P><BR>---<BR><BR>Checked by AVG anti-virus system
(http://www.grisoft.com).<BR>Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: =
240 -
Release Date: 12/6/2002<BR>
<P>
<HR>
=
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