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<font size=3>Ric,<br>
The toggles are sometimes hard to install and harder to remove.<br>
The best repair for this is the screw application you mentioned.<br>
<br>
Don't try to get too fancy. The toggles look far worse than a
screw.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
Jon Page<br>
<br>
<br>
At 07:59 PM 02/12/2000 -0600, you wrote:<br>
>The problem is a cracked soundboard, and one side of the crack
has<br>
>pulled away from the rib about as far as to slip a business
card<br>
>through if it were cut in half. This is in a full
sized upright,<br>
>player piano actually. I must make any repair from the rib
side. <br>
> <br>
><x-tab> </x-tab>The repair I
am most familiar is drilling a pilot hole through the<br>
>rib and SB, then drilling a body hole through the rib, stopping
the<br>
>bit with ground down hack saw blade, or old palette knife. Then<br>
>smearing glue into the crack with the thin blade and running
the<br>
>screw in. <br>
><x-tab> </x-tab>Schaff (new
catalog) offers a "sound board toggle" p 82.
Do I<br>
>understand these are left in the piano after the repair
is<br>
>completed? Or is there a way to remove them and fill the
access<br>
>hole with a dowel? On p. 62 is a "soundboard repair
clamp". (wire,<br>
>locking nut and wingnut) But this looks like one must have
access<br>
>to both sides of the soundboard. Is this correct?
Both of these<br>
>appeal to me because it looks like they can draw the seperation<br>
>together with more strength than a screw through a 1/4 inch of<br>
>spruce. <br>
><x-tab> </x-tab>If any one
has used these repairs and can advise, I would be most<br>
>grateful. Or perhaps there is something out there I am not
aware<br>
>of. I know of the repair in Reblitz using thin bolts and
washers<br>
>but that needs access to both sides which I do not have. On
p.<br>
>128, illus. 7-14 is the exact problem I am facing. One side of
the<br>
>crack has curled away, the other seems intact. Should I screw
down<br>
>the other side to be safe? ---ric <br>
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