<html> <body> Just wondering, but did "they" also install those new hammers on old shanks/knuckles? :-) Avery At 03:56 PM 11/13/04, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I think I found part of the problem already. The tooner before me "rebuilt the piano" - you know, the full monty - new strings, hammers, damper felts (yes indeed, hanging way out past the damper heads) and keytops  - none of which were installed straight/aligned, etc. I imagine this thing had ivory keytops originally. The new keytops are thick plastic (~2mm), and yup, you guessed it, he didn't plane the keytops down to compensate for the thicker keytops - so now I have keys that are one or two millimeters thicker than original.....   Oh well, back to the drawing board ........ er= , a, regulating table......   Terry Farrell <dl> <dd>----- Original Message ----- <dd>From: <a href="mailto:antares@euronet.nl">antares</a> <dd>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</a> <dd>Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2004 4:04 PM <dd>Subject: Re: Front Rail Punching Interference <dd>Terry, <dd>First of all, you need to know the exact key height of your key board. <dd>This is the key to your regulation. <dd>For instance.... the key height for Steinway model S-B (measured from the key bed to the underside of the key top covering) is 63 mm. <dd>For Yamaha's this 64 mm. <dd>It is the only way to get your basis straight. <dd>After that, we're talking. <dd>André Oorebeek <dd>On 13-nov-04, at 20:47, Farrell wrote: <dl> <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>Help!<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>I'm trying to regulate a Baldwin "Monarch" microgrand action. I haven't looked up the piano's age (can't find my Pierce Atlas), but it is from the first half of the 20th Century. I've run into this before. I level keys (1/2" sharp height), regulate blow, let-off, etc., and then go to set aftertouch. When I have the proper aftertouch on the sharps, the adjacent naturals hit the sharp front rail punching before they hit their own front rail punching when depressing the natural.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>That's bad.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>What gives? Have I done something stupid? Have I simply overlooked something?<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>Another thing - I have to reduce blow to 1-3/4 inches to provide sufficient key travel (about 3/8 inches - way less than spec) to allow let-off and a tad of aftertouch. I replaced the back rail felt with original thickness (which is the thinnest sold by the supply houses), I am using the thinnest front rail punchings available, and I even have key height a little bit higher than they were (and above spec - more than 2-1/2 inches - I'm quite sure I'm still OK with the fallboard).<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>Again, what gives? Action clearly appears all original.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>This is all a lot easier when you rebuild the action, go through the Stanwood and geometry stuff, and have it all correct from the get-go! Because, as in this case, it can't be me, it's gotta be the action! Right?   ;-)<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>Thanks for anything anyone has to offer.<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> <dd>  <dd><?fontfamily><?param Arial><?smaller>Terry Farrell<?/smaller><?/fontfamily> </dl> <dd>friendly greetings <dd>from <dd>André Oorebeek <dd>"where Music is, no harm can be" </dl></blockquote></body> </html>