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<DIV><FONT size=2>Roy,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Lee Valley Tools, <A
href="http://www.leevalley.com">www.leevalley.com</A>, has a line of =
carbide
tipped plug cutters that do a super job. I have used their 3/8 =
cutter to
make plugs for the bass section of a pinblock. I'm not sure I =
would want
to cut enough (228!!) to plug an entire pinblock. You need a drill =
press,
a hand drill will not allow you to control size and shape of the =
plugs. Go
back and re-read where the others advised you to use pinblock material, =
not
solid maple, and to make a solid glue joint around all surfaces of the
plug. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>As far as drilling for the pins, here's two
ideas:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> - I have made a fixture for my drill press to =
clamp a
plug and drill a .250 pilot hole for the pin. The fixture ensures =
the
pilot hole is in the center of the plug. After the plug has been =
glued
into the piano, I can hand drill for the pin, and be reasonable
on-center.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> - Reblitz, in the section of his book on =
drilling
pinblocks, has a sketch of a modified drill press sitting on a plank =
resting on
the rim of a piano, for drilling the block in the piano. I've =
never tried
this, but it looks like it could work if you can re-configure your drill =
press
to look like th picture.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>A caution: don't assume that 7 degrees is the =
only
correct pin angle. It can depend on the piano. You want =
the
angle the string makes with the the pin, to make the string tend to =
climb
the pin ever so slightly, just enough to make sure your coil =
won't slip
down. I've done some as low as 4 degrees. If you lay =
the pin
back too far, you won't be able to keep your coils tight. However, =
if you
don't lay the pins back far enough, the string may climb over the coil,
especially in 20 years after the pins loosen up and lean forward, and =
someone
taps them in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Good luck!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Mike</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:RCzekay@AOL.COM" =
title=RCzekay@AOL.COM>RCzekay@AOL.COM</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"
title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 13, 2001 =
8:17
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Restoring old =
uprights</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT size=3>Have been =
following all
the tips on restringing old uprights that my original <BR>post a few =
days ago
started. <BR><BR>Thanks to all who have offered many tips. It seems to =
me that
the best way to <BR>go would be to remove the plate, bore the old pin =
holes to
3/8 and plug with <BR>3/8 hard rock maple dowels, or pin block =
material after
adding a spot of <BR>epoxy or white glue for assurance. <BR><BR>My =
next
question is, how does one bore the new pin holes at a 7 degree angle,
<BR>which is SAP when boring a new grand plank? On a drill press it =
easy to
do, <BR>but with an upright on its back using a hand drill that would =
seem to
me to <BR>be almost impossible. Are there jigs to attach to a hand =
held drill
that <BR>would facilitate this operation? Also is there a tool to make =
one's
own maple <BR>or pin block material plugs? I'm 73 years old, and have =
not kept
up with all <BR>the latest innovations in tools and technology, so =
please bear
with me. One <BR>is never too old to learn! <BR><BR>Thanks once again =
to all
who have contributed to this discussion. <BR><BR>Roy Czekay</FONT>
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