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<DIV><FONT size=2>I usually apply the epoxy while I am installing the =
new
pins. After pulling pins and renotching the bridge, I mix up =
a small
amount of epoxy in a cup. Using piece of piano wire, I swab the =
holes with
the epoxy, dip the end of the pin in and insert it into the =
hole. The
epoxy oozes around so periodically I take an acid brush, =
dip it
lightly into lacquer thinner and brush the overflow down into the =
notches and
across the bridge top. I stop using the mixed batch well before it =
starts
to gel or harden (20 - 25 minutes depending on
temperature). Then I take a dry tooth =
brush and brush
over the area already covered to insure that there is no excess =
laying
around. Mix a new batch and go on. I haven't tried putting a =
coat
of epoxy on the bridge and then reaming for new pins after it
hardens. I would think that it would be hard to =
control whether
or not you were uncentering the hole off the ridge of the
notch. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>David Love</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com
href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> December 15, 2002 8:58 =
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Epoxy Repair to bridge =
top</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT lang=0 =
face="Times New Roman"
size=3
=
FAMILY="SERIF"><BR> &nbs=
p;
=
List<BR>  =
;
I know we've discussed epoxy bridge repair and Since I'm currently in =
the
middle of the first I've done of this in a while I'm hoping you all =
will
interject your own protocols so I can get it right if I mis-step on =
this one a
bit.<BR> The situation thus far is I've replaced the top =
two
treble bridge caps with new tight maple ones A Mason AA .Yes I found =
some in
an old upright pinblock. The lower portions arte in relatively good =
shape. A
few hairline cracks and a little bridge pin wiggle at the top =
but no
seroius degredadtion. <BR> I wanted to =
install
new pins to get rid of the grooves at the that pin terminus and also =
tighten
up the pin fit in the cap. In case it's escaped any of you as it =
has me
the bridge pins no. 6, 7, & are not really the size =
stated in
the catalogue but tend to run 1 thou. smaller. A size 6 supposed =
to be
.076 is really .075 and so on. Really quite annoying when trying to =
just snug
up the pin fit in the wood if you know what I =
mean.<BR> Any
way now I know I'm going to need to have enough epoxy in the holes to =
ream and
fit more so than if the pins were correct size.<BR> Using the =
west
systems epoxy and slow hardener ( thanks Terry and Keith R) I poured a =
small
bit in a plastic squeeze bottle and inserted the needle into the holes =
working
it around with the needle as I went and topping off each hole with a =
final
drop. Previous to this I had renotched, planned down the cap to remove =
all the
string marks and dag. Underneath is a beautiful ,tightly 1/4 sawn cap. =
<BR> I decided to finish the cap in a natural epoxy =
finnish
which I've not done before.<BR> So while the epoxy was =
setting up
in the holes I brushed on the rest of the epoxy into the notches and =
bridge
top. No Problems yet.<BR> Today I found the =
appearance to be
too glossy for my liking so I knocked off the nibs and dust with 800 =
grit
paper then used 4 /0 steel wool to satinize it then repolished it with =
a paper
towel. It looks fabuolous. The notches I just steel =
wooled.Considering
the epoxy must be harder than the wood should lend to itself to better =
energy
transmission, increased longevity and beauty.<BR> =
Next will
come fittin the pins which I'd appreciate any feed back on the results =
of this
for you.<BR> I was planning to ream the holes with the =
apropriate size
bit and drive in a new pin. The reason I've avoided this process in =
the past
has been because of the untidy out come of sticky epoxy ever where a s =
I'm
pushing bridge pins into it and having it come gushing out everywhere =
and
trying to clean it =
up.<BR>
Dale Erwin</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>