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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Hi =
Randy:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Here's my recipe for =
recoating
sharps. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> 1. First, go over =
each one with
0000 steel wool. This gets the grime off the keys especially the
sides. At this time you can also sand and/or fill any =
damage.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> 2. Wipe down =
the keys with
mineral spirits to remove any foreign matter, dust or oil from some =
steel
wools. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> 3. Lightly, I =
stress
LIGHTLY spray the keys with satin black aerosol enamel. Use a good =
quality
paint and just fog the spray on from some distance away. Don't try =
to
cover the surfaces with a wet coat, as you may wind up with fish eyes, =
runs and
drips. You can recoat in 1/2 hour, but again very lightly. =
Let dry
completely and recoat the same way. I made up a jig for holding =
the keys
in position by driving roofing nails up through a piece of thin =
plywood. I
place the keys on each nail much the same way they would be held by the =
balance
rail pins in the piano. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial
size=2> Be =
sure to
aim your spray at the sides and front of the keys, the tops will take =
care of
themselves. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> 4. After both =
color coats
are dry, spray again LIGHTLY with two coats of satin polyurethane. =
There
is a quick drying product that saves time drying between coats. =
This
creates a tough outer skin that wears well. You can then either =
leave the
finish as is or again, using 0000 steel wool, dull the reflectivity of =
the
finished key to the level desired. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial
size=2> Hope=
this
helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial
size=2> =
Mike
Kurta</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>