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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Paul C said: "<FONT face="Times New =
Roman" size=3>
Epoxy can be warmed with a heat gun or blow dryer, whatever, after =
you<BR>place
it on the cracks. It becomes very thin and migrates into the
cracks<BR>very well, but also sets quickly. Use some tape to build =
dams
around the<BR>area, set the bridge pins where you want them, apply glue =
then
heat. Allow<BR>24 hours to cure. Epoxy can be warmed with a heat =
gun or
blow dryer, whatever, after you<BR>place it on the cracks. It =
becomes very
thin and migrates into the cracks<BR>very well, but also sets =
quickly. Use
some tape to build dams around the<BR>area, set the bridge pins where =
you want
them, apply glue then heat. Allow<BR>24 hours to =
cure."<BR><BR> Paul
C,</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3>Either you
didn't read my method or you chose to dismiss it! =
:-(</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
size=3>My method,
(which was a product of Darrell Fandrich's inventiveness), applies the =
heat,
THEN the epoxy, (in a SMALL amount sufficient to do the job w/o =
slathering
the damned stuff all over the damned place!!!!! Yes, it takes a =
little
longer to do than Bill's method, but it's neater, and esthetically =
better, IMO.
Same system/different method, (that predates Bill's method by about 10
years!<G>)<BR><BR><BR> Paul C</FONT><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>