<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <html><head><style type="text/css"></style><title>Re: Tormek the terminator</title></head><body> <blockquote type="cite" cite><br></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1">Phil Ford writes:</font><br> <font face="Arial" size="-1"></font> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1">Yes, I have one.  Expensive, but worth it.  I find that I use the polishing<br> wheel as often as the grinding wheel.  I still use stones for the final<br> sharpening.  Put it on the Tormek to get the hollow grind, and then sharpen<br> on fine stones.  Then polish with the polishing wheel.  When the edge<br> starts to get a little dull I run it over the stones again (rather than the<br> Tormek grinding wheel) and then polish on the polishing wheel</font><br> <font face="Arial" size="-1"></font></blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000"><br> <br> <br> I had about come to that conclusion also, for several reasons. One, there is something of a jump between the grit of the grinding wheel and that of the polishing, like 2000 to 6000. There are aftermarket Japanese waterstones of intermediate and fine grits for the Tormek, but they would involve some wheel changing. Part of the appeal is not having to monkey too much with the setup.</font></blockquote> <div><br> I agree.<br> </div> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000">Second, touching up on stones between grindings is quick, since the hollow grind leaves very thin contact areas to rub on the stones. Once those contacts widen with repeated sharpening, Tormek has a very good suggestion for duplicating the grinding setup - clamp the tool in the jig, paint the bevel with marker pen, touch the blade to the rotating wheel, and adjust so that the grind is right in the middle of the bevel. This means grinding off very little metal AND speeds the process.</font></blockquote> <div><br></div> <div>Clever idea.  I'll give it a try.</div> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000"><br></font> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000">I also have a problem using the Tormek for japanese chisels...</font></blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000"><br> <br> </font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000">I don't have it in front of me right at the moment, and I can't remember. If you don't hear from me in a day or two, remind me, and I'll figure it out again.</font></blockquote> <div><br> OK.  Thanks Bob.<br> </div> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000"><br></font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000">I think the mat idea for your sharpening table is brilliant. Solves many problems at once, and inexpensively.</font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000"><br></font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1" color="#000000">Bob Davis</font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite><br></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite>_______________________________________________</blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives</blockquote> <div><br></div> </body> </html>