<html> Hi Isaac,             &nbs= p;   We change BR pins quite often, no point in in rebushing keys, (Labour intensive) and having worn, corroded, dirty, or damaged pins.  If the pin is worn, just give the top of the pin a light tap with a hammer and knock it in a tad. The cup be gone. <G>  Simple. As for RPM, it's only a quick burst with the switch, the drill never gets up to speed. The drill is battery operated and light duty, so not an over abundance of torque. We just follow the angle of using the centre of the mortice as a guide.  I know it's not exact.   Key and drill are hand held so the drill just finds it way naturally, if you get my meaning.  The pin is pushed into the hole before the switch is pulled. You soon get the feel for it.   Not so different that learning the feel for the key easing tool. Hey, nothing is completely fool proof. I am just as picky as you with fitting.  The swelling of the wood, is the reason why I prefer waiting a few days before fitting where practical.  Experience has shown me it achieves better results. Your comment on using a caul in a soldering iron.  Pianotech now has precision, parallel cauls, (I love there) if you use a thermostat on the iron so the caul is not so hot, it will give a precise job.  It does a nice job of laying the nap down, and controlling the friction. Regards Roger At 10:40 AM 9/7/02 +0200, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Hi Roger, I will try it.   My experience  i= s that because of wear,  the base of the balance pin is more or less large depending the place in the keyboard (measured with a micrometer), that is why I change them more often than not, and you know what is the result. If we retain the original pins, there are places where we need less fitting than others (I mean after having changed the bushings, and steamed the wood) . The job is time consuming but it can be done in less than 15 min.   For new instruments your method seems a time saver. Do you have a fixture for holding the drill ? at what speed do you turn approx (in RPM, not in MPH !) Do you hold it straight or do you follow the hole angle (slightly slanted to the back on most keyboards) ?   Thanks   Isaac          -----Message d'origine----- De : owner-pianotech@ptg.org [<a href="mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org" eudora="autourl">mailto:owner-= pianotech@ptg.org</a>]De la part de Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre Envoyé : samedi 7 septembre 2002 00:22 À : pianotech@ptg.org Objet : RE: key bushings <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite> <dl> <dd>I am sorry (not really but you see...) , I will try it but I don't buy it at first :>) as the pinning is showing more or less wear depending of the place in the keyboard, sizing the hole to a standard size with an electric drill may not allow the best fit (anyway not on original pins) .</blockquote> <dd>Hi Isaac, <dd>            =      Just make sure the pin is straight and polished.  We sell lots of new Yamaha's and in any month it saves us hours of key fitting. <dd>  When I say a quick burst of the switch, it's not much more than half a dozen revolutions, just enough to burnish the hole. <dd>  After steaming out old bushings, we re bush and fit in the same manner, we have encountered no problems at all.  A set can be done in 5 mins or so. <dd>  Try it and let me know what you think. <dd>regards Roger </dl></blockquote> </html>