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<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN =
class=660425215-17012001>I
agree about the mix mistake, but won't it cure eventually, just take =
longer?
It's happened to me and it just took an extra day or a few more =
hours.
Seemed rock hard after that. Redoing any of that would be a
nightmare. I use Epotech for some non-removable pinblocks, water
thin. Very good stuff.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN =
class=660425215-17012001>
<P><FONT size=2>Lance Lafargue, RPT<BR>Mandeville, LA<BR>New Orleans =
Chapter,
PTG<BR>lancelafargue@bellsouth.net</FONT> </P></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT =
face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-pianotech@ptg.org
[mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]<B>On Behalf Of =
</B>Farrell<BR><B>Sent:</B>
Wednesday, January 17, 2001 7:09 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: S and S =
K52<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV>"Epotec 301 epoxy to all the pins..... After overnight =
cure, The
surface seemed a bit tacky..."</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have not used Epotec yet, but have used West System =
extensively. I
would be concerned about any epoxy mixture that did not cure overnight =
(so
that it is not tacky). This may indicate an improperly mixed batch of =
epoxy
(don't ask how I know, but one can mix improper resin/hardener ratios, =
and/or
not mix the batch thoroughly enough, leaving some resin =
hardener-starved). Do
you have a left-over glob on a mixing board? I always am sure to save =
a little
glob (at least) on my spreader/mixer or something to see that I did =
not make
any mistakes with mixing the hardener & resin, i.e., I make sure =
my glob
got hard overnight so that I know my repair has a good batch of epoxy =
in it.
Once or twice over the years I have made boo-boos, but at least I =
became aware
of it before the work went out the door (time to clean and =
re-do!).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>P.S. HA! I'll have to try this Epotec stuff. My spell checker =
thinks it
is "Erotic"!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry Farrell<BR>Piano Tuning & Service<BR>Tampa, =
Florida<BR><A
=
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A></DI=
V>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:cmpiano@home.com" title=cmpiano@home.com>Meyer =
Carl</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"
title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 17, =
2001 2:02
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> S and S K52</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>List:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I'm presently working on a 1909 S&S =
K52. It was
professionally refinished. I've so far replaced the
keytops, rescaled with PSCALE, and restrung using wound strings =
on the
first 5 notes above the bass break. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Prior to stringing I lowered the plate w/o =
removing it by
using a saber saw to take the thickness or height of the dowels down =
by one
saw kerf. As the screws rose toward the treble side I used =
progressively
thinner blades (some by hand for accessability). Along the =
bottom I
used more than one kerf as required to get the downbearing I
wanted. I found I had to remove most of the screws completely =
and lube
with bees wax in order to pull them down. Rust and corrosion =
made them
just too tight to move. This worked rather well. I =
cleaned the
bridge by clamping a brass brush to the blade of an electric carving =
knife.
The brass brush was about the size of a toothbrush. Then by =
sections I
warmed the bridge with a hair drier and applied Epotec 301 epoxy to =
all the
pins. I then rewarmed with the hair drier to help penetration =
of the
epoxy. Since that is slow setting stuff, I waited awhile and =
then
removed the excess by brushing the whole bridge with a dry paint =
brush,
wiping the brush often. I ended up with a nice looking bridge =
with a
coating of epoxy on it. Might not look good enough for a =
grand, but
looks okay. After overnight cure, The surface seemed a bit =
tacky, so I
sprinkled talc on it and brushed it in and then blew off the =
excess
with my air hose. That worked pretty good considering it =
didn't take
long at all except for the cure time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>So now, I'm starting to regulate and replace the =
dampers. Hammers are decent but not original.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I now have several questions, since I'm not one =
who (only
works on Steinways), actually seldom do.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>In the piano action handbook it calls for .4 =
inches
dip. I see specs that vary for dip and I've thought that =
since
the dip is the first interface between the performer and the =
instrument it
would seem that uniform dip from piano to piano would be desirable. =
In most
cases regulation can compensate for different dips, so a =
uniform dip
could be used. I'm not a player so perhaps I don't have a feel =
for
this. Anybody have any strong opinions on this? How sacred is
following the manufacturing specs regarding dip?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I found that repetition was poor in the high =
treble.
I found action centers were a bit tight especially the jack. =
After
water and alky, protec and the zapper, it repeats better, but key 88 =
has a
chunk of lead in it and the dowel capstan pushes up about14 =
grams. Now
the weight of the whippen is not much more than that, so if there is =
some
lost motion then the whippen may not even push the key down beyond =
the lost
motion and that will produce a key leveling =
problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Question: What is the criteria for jack
tightness?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>A gram gauge at the end of the jack should read =
no more
that what?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Question: Should I remove lead to get =
better
repetion and have better up weight and down weight? Or am I =
missing
something?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Last question: The dampers of S&S =
uprights as
well as Mason and Hamlin are very different than most =
uprights. The
felt between the block and the popsicle stick is much thicker than =
standard
supply house dampers. They have the popsicle sticks in the center =
section as
well. What do you do to replace those? Steinway has a =
set of
dampers in their price list for 121 dollars, and I don't even know =
what they
consist of. Anybody use them, or do you just adapt standard
dampers?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Comments anybody? Thanks in =
advance!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Carl Meyer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT =
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