<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:Wimblees@AOL.COM" =
title=Wimblees@AOL.COM>Wimblees@AOL.COM</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"
title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 08, 2002 =
1:46
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Great tech tip. was =
Re:
loose/tight flanges</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT size=2>In a =
message dated
2/7/02 5:33:50 PM Central Standard Time, David Skolnik writes: =
<BR><BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"
TYPE="CITE">
<DIV>Wim - <BR>I often use my Apsco upright action cradle (removing =
# 1
& # 88 wippins), clamping the top action and rotating it, first =
so that
the hammers swing clear without contacting reps. You can =
immediately
pick out suspect (tight or loose) pinning. By taking off and =
measuring
(by feel, gauge, or swings) a few, you know how to interpret the way =
the
rest appear swinging on the frame. This method works well =
unless the
shank traveling is poor. <BR><BR>Wim, <BR>The easiest way I have =
come up
with is to take the top stack off and put it <BR>in the Upright =
Action
Cradle. Turn it upside down and swing away. Hope this <BR>helps. =
<BR>Best
Regards, <BR>Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> <BR> Yes, or you can =
unscrew the
hammer rail and hang it on (screw it to) a homemade stand. I =
use two
pieces of 1 x 4 about a foot long, standing vertically. One =
screws to
the left side of my bench. The other has a foot, or base on it =
so it
can stand by itself on the bench (not all hammer rails are exactly =
the same
length). I unscrew the hammer rail and fasten one end to the =
fixed
upright 1 x 4 with a wood screw into a pre-drilled hole.
Then I screw the other end of the rail to the movable stand, =
and
clamp the stand's base to the bench. Hammers are swinging =
upside
down, the flange screws facing me. I can lift handfuls of =
hammers at a
time, drop them and let them swing, and see which ones are too tight =
or too
loose. The stand is sturdy enough and hammer rails are stiff =
enough
that I can unscrew and screw hammer flanges/shanks either by hand or =
with a
cordless screwdriver. Disadvantage: paper shims =
with no
adhesive, previously placed by the factory or other technicians, =
will just
fall off when removing flanges. The traveling I do with the =
rail back
on the stack, however. --Dave Nereson, RPT,
Denver<BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV> <BR></FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>