<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" = xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" = xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=ProgId content=Word.Document> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <meta name=Originator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <link rel=File-List href="cid:filelist.xml@01C4E472.605ABAE0"> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple = style='tab-interval:.5in' id="role_body" bottomMargin=7 leftmargin=7 topmargin=7 rightMargin=7> <div class=Section1> I use small hand = held supporting jig which I made and supports the shanks from side play while = it rests on top of the flanges.   I then trim the shanks one at a time with a Japanese fine tooth = pull saw that cuts them flush.  I = often don’t sand them after as the saw cuts them very close and I don’t like = taking the chance of stressing the centers with a disk sander.    <o:p></o:p></= p> <o:p> </o:p> One problem with the belt sander = technique is that I prefer the sanding marks to lay perpendicular to the checking = direction.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <st1:PersonName>Jon = Page</st1:PersonName> has(d) a system in which he = trims the shank and tails the hammers at the same time with a band saw (I = believe).  It does require removing the = shanks from the rail and building a pivoting jig, but it certainly seems to work for = him.  It is also very useful if you = like to measure the strike weights after the hammers are glued up which usually = requires removing them from the rail anyway.  <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> David Love <st1:PersonName>davidlovepianos@comcast.net</f= ont></st1:PersonName> = <o:p></o:p> </div> -----Original = Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of <st1:PersonName>Erwinspiano@aol.com<= /font></st1:PersonName> Sent: Friday, December = 17, 2004 5:29 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: shop tip = trivia--trimming shanks <o:p> </o:p> <div>    <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>   Hey guys<o:p></o:p></spa= n> </div> <div>   I've tried several ways of trimming the long ends of new shanks. For = years I'd clamp a section O shanks in a jaras or spurlock clamp & then cut = with a small back saw. The set up got to be tedious recently & frankly the procedure isn't fool proof so I have started using the new pianotek = center pin cutters which are nicely made which cut cleanly enough to = avoid tear out of any wood that protrudes into the shank hole. What little is = left I remove by propping the shanks up on a straight edge, placing the = action right out on the edge of my bench & removing the remainder with a = 3" by 18 inch belt sander with 120 ish paper. I use just the front roller primarily. It's an easy process & it also cleans up any minor = imperfections in hammer tail line. The tails are lightly roughed as well. I don't like = tails very  roughened but it seems to help the intial seating of the tail = in new check leather.<o:p></o:p></spa= n> </div> <div>  It's important to screw the stack down to the bench for safety before sanding so it doesn't flop on the floor. DAMHIK cause I haven't = done it Safety first ya know.<o:p></o:p></spa= n> </div> <div>  What do other do?<o:p></o:p></spa= n> </div> <div>    Merry Christmas<o:p></o:p></spa= n> </div> <div>    Dale Erwin <o:p></o:p> <div>  <o:p></o:p= > </div> <div> Erwins Pianos Restorations 4721 Parker Rd. Modesto, Ca 95357 209-577-8397 Rebuilt Steinway , Mason &Hamlin Sales www.Erwinspiano.com<o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </div> </body> </html>