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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I agree with you =
100%, thank
you, it is wonderful that you know these things and are willing to share =
them.
Molded keytops are all the same dimension within one set. Keysticks
unfortunately are not (except for several sets of Yamaha keys I've =
covered that
were within 0.004 of each other). I've found that most sets of keys =
differ
in length, width and height. I have one set of keys I'm recovering now =
where the
keysticks vary in width up to 0.065. This makes recovering them tricky. =
If you
have a keystick wider than the top you will have to trim the stick, if =
the top
is wider you will have to trim the top. Molded tops being the same width =
have
the contours and radiuses "molded" into them, so if you trim this you =
will, as
you said then have to reshape them, the radiuses and contour to match =
and yes,
the dreaded buffing. I prefer to apply what I call custom tops. This is
similar to factory procedures in which you apply a separate top =
and front.
If done this way one can trim the excess and shape the keys regardless =
of the
inconsistencies in width and yield good visual results. I've found that =
buffing
plastic and ivory both have there areas of concern, but I use different =
wheels
and techniques for both with good results. On the topic of keytop =
materials, I'm
pretty sure I have all of the material available within the states =
and
offer them. I have also acquired material from Aug. Laukhuff =
and Otto Heuss
from Germany as well as P&S organ supply from England. These =
materials are
of very high quality and texture but expense prevents their wide use. =
I've
noticed that piano manufacturers are trending towards thicker and =
thicker tops,
this means replacement tops will need to be thicker. I actually have a =
stash of
keytop material that is 0.105 thick, but very rarely use them. I am not =
adverse
to machining down the keystick to accommodate a new top because I am =
doing it on
milling machines with tolerances to within a few thousandths of an inch, =
and it
must be done. If one measures a keystick at 0.970 and is putting on a =
top that
is 0.075 than you machine the key to 0.895 and you have retained the =
original
dimension. The original dimension must be maintained or there will be a
regulation nightmare. In some cases I find that a keystick has been =
machined with little regard for tolerances, and then a corrective =
measure must
be applied. Three choices exist, have a new keyboard made, use a thicker =
or
thinner top (depending on which direction the error is made), or build =
up the
keys. Two of these choices are very expensive. Keytop replacement is =
tricky and
is a decision that should be well thought out. The keyboard is a =
major
focal point of the piano, it is the interaction point with the piano and =
is the
foundation of all regulation. It is a challenge to balance appearance,
playability and economy. Joe, what do you mean by "stink in my shop?" =
are you
referring to a particular glue or the smell of machining off old plastic =
and
ivory? Mike</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net =
href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">Joe
Garrett</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 =
1:03
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded =
Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael Morvan said: "<FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3>The quality of the keytop, quality =
of the
=<BR>piano, quality of the rebuild, preference of the customer, =
knowledge and
=<BR>preference of the technician and budget. Crappy "molded" =
keytops are
=<BR>nice if applied properly, and three thousand dollars worth of =
new ivory
=<BR>is "crappy" if not applied properly. Molded keytops have the =
advantage
=<BR>of being inexpensive, uniform in shape and appearance, and =
relatively
=<BR>easy to apply with minimal skill, tooling and yields fair =
results.
A =<BR>disadvantage is that many people feel that they are a cheap =
top and as
a =<BR>result do not use them."</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Michael,</DIV>
<DIV>What you've said, I agree with. However, it's what you didn't say =
about
moulded keytops that concerns me.</DIV>
<DIV>1. Moulded keytops assumes that all key sets are the same =
dimension,
which they are not. Therefore, trimming is necessary. Here lies the =
rub, as
trimming of moulded keytop material is far more difficult than other
materials. Especially in making the key set look consistant and have a =
smooth
feel under the players hands. Secondly, if you've ever had to (try) to =
buff
out scratches of moulded key top material, (and I'm sure you have, if =
you do
keytops for a living.), it's next to impossible, as the material is =
too soft
and will "burn/gaul" when even light pressure on a buffing wheel is =
applied.
I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's a royal pain in the patoot =
to
do!<G> Lastly, my aversion to moulded keytops is that it is too =
thick,
especially for many older pianos with tight tolerances of the piano =
furniture.
This requires milling the keystick down. I am totally averse to this =
practice
for many reasons. Some of the "moulded keytop material" from Europe is =
better
as some of it is what we call "Plexiglass". This material can be =
sanded and
buffed. It's still too thick for my eye.<G> I too do keytops, =
but as
only part of my overall service to my clients. I used to have someone =
else do
it, as I really don't like the stink in my shop. Out of frustration =
with
others I've taken to doing it....stink or not.<G></DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>