<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10 (filtered)"> <style>  </style> </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Dear Mary:       =       The felt on the hammers has mass which, if filed away, will make the hammers lighter.  The touch weight is affected by this to a greater extent = at the front of the key.  It will feel lighter.  Since the length of = the hammer is shorter, it won’t strike the strings in the correct spot = for optimum volume and tone.  Think of strumming a guitar closer or = farther away from the bridge, and what that does to the tone of the = guitar.  In a piano, there is a sweet spot on the string where the hammer must meet if = there is to be the best tone and volume.  It is a distance approximately = 1/7 the length of the string, measured from the closer end (under the capo bar = or agraffe).  In the high treble area, there is a window of about = 1/16”  in which the hammer must strike.  A short hammer will miss = the sweet spot.    Farther down the keyboard, the window widens considerably, so it isn’t as critical as the treble.  In = addition, the shorter filed hammers will not strike the string at a 90 degree = angle, but rather at a glancing blow.  Power is lost when this happens.  =       =       I am not a rebuilder, but I’ve heard it said many times to replace = hammers, shanks and flanges at the same time. The flanges, knuckles and action = centers will undoubtedly be worn out, so replacing them is always a good = idea.  The new wood will also be more durable.       =       Regarding the pinblock, it is also a good idea.  If you are going to do all = this work, you might as well do it properly.  Unless you hit all the = bases, you are going to have to go back and revisit them sometime in the future anyway.  Why not do it all at once?  You will spend at least = as much time doing it right today, as you will by doing a piecework job which = will need redoing soon anyway.  Restring the piano, repair or replace the = bridge caps and bridge pins, rebuild the action with new parts- everything will = add up to a long lasting instrument which you can enjoy for many years.  = Especially a piano which will be played by serious musicians.  It’s what = they deserve.       =       My two cents.       =       Paul McCloud       =       San Diego   -----Original = Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of mary.tanguay Sent: Thursday, May 01, = 2003 6:26 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: (no = subject)   <div> <div> I am working with a = customer who uses their piano for teaching and recitals.I have recommended a new pinblock, new strings,dampers,new shanks and = flanges. </div> <div>   </div> <div> What effect do worn hammers = (filed almost to the wood in the treble section) have on touch and tone in a = Steinway grand piano? </div> <div>   </div> <div> When replacing a set of = hammers would you also replace the shanks and flanges? </div> <div>   </div> <div> The tuning pins have been = replaced with 6/0 pins.The torque is from 20 inch pounds and jumping in the bass = to 60 inch pounds in the treble.the torque is uneven. </div> <div>   </div> <div> There students are advanced = and require a good touch and tone.I need to present this to a committee = please help with your coments and suggestions. </div> <div>   </div> <div> Thank = you  </div> </div> </div> </body> </html>