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Although I use CA from time to time, in cases like this, I prefer
tapping pins in deeper. <br>
<br>
Reasons:<br>
1)I feel CA glue doesn't penetrate well if applied to an piano
standing up. Laying a piano on its back is an involved procedure.<br>
2) I don't really like introducing any chemicals into a pin block. The
effects of chemicals on future re-pinning (which in such a case I
consider almost inevitable at some point down the road) are unknown (at
least by me).<br>
3) I prefer the aural assault of driving the pins (I wear ear
protection) to the chemical assault to my lungs.<br>
4) If pins are really that high, tapping them in will improve
tunability by reducing flag poling.<br>
<br>
<br>
A few comments: neither measure will address a cracked pin block, and
driving in pins needs to be done judiciously, of course. Always make a
test on a few pins before going the whole nine yards...<br>
<br>
Jurgen Goering<br>
---------------------<br>
<br>
Chris wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid200410271639.i9RGdeY11016@bridget.rudoff.com">
<div><font face="Arial" size="2">I've got a customer with loose
tuning pins (well, I mean her piano, of course). It's an old upright
piano of nominal value. Normally I would not drive the tuning pins to
correct this, I would do the CA glue thing (unless there are
indications of a more serious problem). But in this case I am
considering driving 'em, because:</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2">1) The tuning pins are really high
(about 1 inch), and there is lots of room between the coils and the
plate.</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2">2) All the pins in the piano seem to
have about the same torque. So that makes me think that I'm not seeing
a cracked pinblock problem. </font><font face="Arial" size="2"> </font> </div>
<div> </div>
<br>
</blockquote>
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