<html> Regulate the environment where you are veneering. Be sure that the core wood is dry. Very dry. Use "backed" veneer, or use a poplar veneer backing. Glue size the veneer and press it alone, on wax paper, if needed. (very thin alaphatic wood glue) Use contact cement only in circumstances that won't allow for clamping and wood glue. Take your time. Tauton press, amongst others, has lots of good references. A lot can be said for having the text and some pictures in front of you, and somewhat less than 30 opinions. Remember.... proper protection can prevent veneer-ial dis-ease. later, Guy At 07:59 PM 7/13/2004 -0700, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I am working on an upright piano that had water damage on the horizontal surfaces.  I ordered thin walnut veneer and have been trying, unsuccessfully, to get it to adhere to the boards.  I did remove the old damaged veneer, and cleaned and sanded the surfaces to be repaired.  I first worked with wood glue and clamped in a sandwich of boards, then tried a contact cement on the next piece.  I keep getting air bubbles.  It looks terrible!  There has to be a secret to replacing veneer.  Would one of you expert refinishers give me the benefit of your knowledge...please?   Ed Carwithen John Day, OR</blockquote></html>