<HTML>In a message dated 12/16/2002 5:16:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, RNossaman@cox.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj: Re: Epoxy Repair to bridge top Date: 12/16/2002 5:16:51 AM Pacific Standard Time From: <A HREF="mailto:RNossaman@cox.net">RNossaman@cox.net</A> Reply-to: <A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> To: <A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> Sent from the Internet </BLOCKQUOTE>               Ron And all who responded                Thanks for sharing your collective think tank type ideas                           Yes, I now realize I'll have to drill and drive which is more trouble but I wanted to use the epoxy as a finish as well as structure re-enforcer. So in this case I'm committed to this  technique. To all who drive the pins in wet,do you brush the excess onto the top and redag or what?   Is it just left glossy or what?          At this point ,although I'm going to more work, the satin rubbed epoxy top and notches allows for a quarter sawn visual extravaganza, it looks stunning and functionally it's harder. The Stwy D bridge I just did in shellac has the same appearance and dang shellac is very tough stuff too. Just try sanding it.     Tuesday I'll drive in some pins and see how it goes. The original tenor  pin size were 7s top to bottom so I didn't like the idea of drilling for 8s. With caps of older wood I have concerns of splitting with increased potential for compression.            Thanks all         Dale Erwin     P.s. Hey What about re-plating the bridge pins at the platers to increase the diameter a thou. or so. In some cases it would eliminate the epoxy. Same idea as no 3 and 1/2 tuning pins now sold by piano tech. <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> >  I was planning to ream the holes with the apropriate size bit and drive >in a new pin. The reason I've avoided this process in the past has been >because of the untidy out come of sticky epoxy ever where a s I'm pushing >bridge pins into it and having it come gushing out everywhere and trying >to clean it up. >     Dale Erwin Hi Dale, I put the new pins in the original holes with epoxy in one shot. No pre-filling, cure, and ream to fit. The gap filling properties of the epoxy take care of the fit. I've already got the bridge top flattened and re-notched, and the pins more likely push in rather than having to be driven. What driving there is usually is to even the pins up at finish height. Dry brush cleanup takes care of what oozes out. Alternately, installing pins dry and CA from on top soaks in and solidifies the cap and the interface between cap and pin. In this case, if you've already filled the holes with epoxy - now cured - there isn't any place left for more epoxy to soak into, so you're probably better off putting them in dry after reaming to fit. Ron N _______________________________________________</BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>