<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <html><head><style type="text/css"></style><title>Re: Bandsaw Veneer Cutting</title></head><body> <div>Hi all,</div> <div><br></div> <div>At 7:13 PM -0500 14/1/04, Terry Farrell wrote:</div> <blockquote type="cite" cite>Thanks Greg, but how do you go about cutting an exactly 1.0 mm thick<br> veneer - not 1.1 mm, not 0.9 mm, but 1.0 mm? My saw is the first bandsaw I<br> ever cut a stick on, so I'm sure there are some basic techniques that I am<br> simply ignorant of.<br> </blockquote> <blockquote type="cite" cite>Terry Farrell</blockquote> <div><br></div> <div>Terry, the problem of minimising wastage when resawing is common. You won't get within 0.1 mm accuracy with a bandsaw, but if its properly set up it is possible to get a moderately smooth cut surface off the saw.</div> <div><br></div> <div>However, in my experience new blades never run true on the saw when first installed. Even the figure eight packing of the blade during delivery is sufficient to cause a wondering blade. Before using a new blade it is well worth spending half a hour with a straight edge, a small hammer and a trued and straight block of soft wood to pene the blade straight.</div> <div><br></div> <div>With the blade at cutting tension advance the blade by hand a few inches at a time, while at each point checking the lie of the blade between the upper guide system and the table. You will find the the blade doesn't lie in a straight line all the way around when you check it with a straight edge. With the soft wood block supporting the blade on the concave side I gently work the blade around the centre of the bow. This procedure is continued until I get right around the blade. If the blade has the teeth accurately set (and the blade joint is straight), you won't believe the improvement after straightening the blade. The blades I use are Simons Red Streak 2" wide with a 35 thou back, a 20 thou tooth set with a 1' pitch. Its really a bit small for resawing deep boards (max depth under the guide is 14")  but its all I can afford at the present time until we get a few more pianos out. If these blades travelled absolutely straight and didn't vibrate they would cut with a width of 75 thou. If I put a new blade on and try it without straightening it, it will often cut a width of 120 thou. After straightening it will typically cut 85 to 95 thou (around 2.5 mm).</div> <div><br></div> <div>I have also found that the feed rate is critically important the quality of cut. If the feed rate is too slow the blade will vibrate and cause a lot a of wastage, while too fast a rate will cause the blade to wonder off line.</div> <div><br></div> <div>On the work front we're currently re-boarding a 1962 Hamburg Steinway D<font color="#0000FF"> (the original board had a reverse crown in front of the bridge in the killer octave)</font> and a Kawai KG5 at the same time as we're building our own piano no. 5. The D is getting a laminated bass corner cutt-off, an extra back beam to replace the bell, and an additional new cut-off area in the treble. I'm planning to take images for the web site soon once I get the cut-offs glued in place. Tomorrow I'm feathering the ribs on no. 5's board, so it will likely be the weekend before I get around to taking images of the D. I'm quite looking forward to hearing this reworked D, since the client has given us a brief to incorporate our new sound board design as well.</div> <div><br></div> <div>Best,</div> <div>Ron O.</div> <x-sigsep><pre>-- </pre></x-sigsep> <div><font face="Times New Roman" size="+1" color="#0000FF"><b>OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY</b></font></div> <div><font color="#000000"><i>   </i></font><font color="#0000FF"><i>Grand Piano Manufacturers</i></font><font color="#000000"><br> _______________________</font></div> <div><font size="-2" color="#000000"><br> </font><font color="#000000">Web http://overspianos.com.au</font></div> <div><font color="#000000">mailto:info@overspianos.com.au<br> _______________________</font></div> </body> </html>