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<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=016400413-19032004>Terry</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004>I'm a
little late on getting back on this one. Here's some experiences =
I've had
with planers: </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT =
face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>Subject:</B> Electric =
Planers &
Blades & Pinblocks<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2>I have a Dewald 12-1/2-inch =
electric
planer. I use it quite a bit. I can plane Sitka Spruce all day with =
it. I can
plane narrow-ish hardwood boards all day with it. But, I have =
been making
a number of pinblocks lately and find that when I run wide hard maple =
boards
through the planer numerous times, it seems to take its toll. I =
suspect I am
simply reaching the limits of durability with such a =
tool.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The blades are what seem to go first. =
I have
enough power (unless of course the slower rotation when stressed =
contributes
to poor performance). The unit is wide enough for most of my needs. =
But the
knives get dull quickly. It takes a long time to sharpen them (I spent =
four
hours removing, sharpening, reinstalling and adjusting them =
yesterday).
Yesterday I noticed that one edge was cutting deeper than the rest of =
the
width. I found that one of the knives had bent at one =
end.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004><FONT
color=#0000ff>[Paul Chick (Earthlink)] </FONT></SPAN>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN
class=016400413-19032004> <FONT =
color=#0000ff>The
knives are ground for general purpose planing. =
Increase the
included angle by 5 degrees. Check the angle of the knives in =
the cutter
head before proceeding; of the back of the knive may hit the =
wood. Your
owners manual may have some recommendations. The knives =
will be
more durable for maple, but you may experience a rougher finish and =
more
tear-out on softer woods like spruce.</FONT> <FONT
color=#0000ff> Adjust the rate of feed and the depth of =
cut to find
the optimum capacity for your =
machine.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
=
class=016400413-19032004></SPAN></FONT></FONT> </DIV></FONT></DIV>=
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2>It seems that running wood =
through the
planer with the grain parallel to the knives is hardest on the =
planer.
Are there any wisdom-type rules for such grain when planing with =
an
electric planer?<BR><SPAN class=016400413-19032004><FONT =
color=#0000ff>[Paul
Chick (Earthlink)] </FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004><FONT
color=#0000ff>Knives working cross grain tend to peel the wood =
more
easily making long stringy chips. They must be very sharp and =
used with
very light cuts for best =
performance</FONT> </SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2>I think this planer is just not =
heavy-duty
enough for running lots of wide hardwood through it. Do bigger planers =
have
thicker, more heavy-duty, knives? Are knives of higher-quality =
metals
available -harder (like for hand planes)? Anyone have a =
recommendation
for a bigger planer? How do others handle planer knife sharpening (I =
am
sharpening mine on my Tormek unit)?<BR><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004><FONT
color=#0000ff>[Paul Chick =
(Earthlink)] </FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004><FONT
color=#0000ff>Thicker knives and carbide knives are available. =
Check the
capacity of your cutterhead before purchasing them. It sounds =
like
you're at or over the limit of your machine. Check =
out
RBI.</FONT> <FONT color=#0000ff> We bought one of their 20"
planers. It does not have the cast iron tables you see in =
commercial
machines, but is very beefy in the right places with a 5 hp =
motor. The
first big job through it was 1500 BF of aspen for paneling; no =
problems and
the knives are still sharp. It handles the harder =
woods--maple,
birch, oak, walnut, hickory--with ease. I think they build a 15" =
machine
that you might consider. I recommend calling them and =
discussing your needs. They have a website, or look =
in the
ads of woodworking magazines.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004><FONT
color=#0000ff>Nice job on the pinblock you
pictured.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN
class=016400413-19032004></SPAN></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN =
class=016400413-19032004><FONT
color=#0000ff>Paul C</FONT> </SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Oh, and here is a picture of my =
latest pinblock.
Quarter-sawn hard-maple epoxy-bonded with a Delignit cap. =
Operators are
standing by......</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:016400413@19032004-115d" =
align=baseline
border=0></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry
Farrell</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>