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At 04:45 PM 10/16/2002 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite><font face="Times New Roman, Times" size=2>In
a message dated 10/16/2002 11:38:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bases-loaded@juno.com writes:<br>
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<blockquote type=cite cite>Subj:<b>Re: Piano Lac Finish </b><br>
Date:10/16/2002 11:38:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time<br>
From:<a href="mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com">bases-loaded@juno.com</a><br>
Reply-to:<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>
To:<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>
<i>Sent from the Internet </i></blockquote><br>
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Mark<br>
Thank you so much for this description. It was imenseley helpful.<br>
I just finished another
mahogony sample board this am. Although it still had some open grain from
spraying to heavy it came out fairly well untill I got to the final
rubout. With nitro cell we sand the final gloss coats with 600 wet then
finish with steel wool and polish for a semi but glossyier than semi
gloss appearance . We get a very translucent finish starting out with a
water dye. But when trying a similar rubout on the water base gloss the
end result is not as clear but kind of hazy. It's much better than when
we first started. Mr. Gutlo sent me a mahogony piece nicely
polished and the clarity is stunning but I don't wish to do
polished finnishes. So my question is what kind of rubout are you doing.
How's the clarity? Whats the process? I'll can't except anything muddy /
hazy looking myself.<br>
By the way what product are you using????????<br>
Thanks again. Still grinding away in
Modesto>>>>Dale Erwin</font></blockquote><font size=2><br>
Wet sand with 500 or 600 with a rubbing lubricant. Don't use water for a
lube on water-based material.<br>
Effect a stain finish with grey Scotch Brite. Then give it two
coats of Rain Dance Paste Car Wax.<br>
<br>
You will have a polished satin finish. Not flat and not too
glossy.<br>
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