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<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>But the wound strings in the tenor sounds=
like something this fellow can handle with ease and make a big=
improvement...i.e. without having to send it to=
you...;-]<BR><BR>David Ilvedson<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>
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Original message<BR>From: Terry <TERRY@FARRELLPIANO.COM><BR>To:=
Pianotech <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG><BR>Received: Fri, 25 Feb 2005=
21:07:29 -0500<BR>Subject: Re: Rescaling GH1 tenor=
section<BR><BR>
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<DIV align=left><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Joe Garrett=
wrote:<BR></EM></FONT></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>I did exactly that, back in the=
late 70's, (at the request of Yamaha, I might add.<G>). It=
is definately the way to go. You will need to change the plain=
wire to wound on the tenor bridge. It's been a while since I've=
done one of these, (I've done several, al with excellent=
results!) As I recall, the first 6 notes on the long bridge need=
to be wound. I still have the scale data, somewhere in my 'puter=
cobwebs, but I'd have to search for it.</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><EM>It is not necessary to modify the bridge in any way.=
just use the outside bridge pins of each note, leaving the=
center blank. </EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Well yes, that is one way to go - and one=
that will definately yield improvement - but not necessarily=
the approach that yields the most=
improvement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Also, the same for the tuning=
pins. As I recall, I left the "blank" tuning pin in place, so=
that it had a nice appearance. You will have to add som hitch=
pins. As I sent all of my schematics/blueprints to Yamaha, I=
don't have a copy of the hitch pin pattern. It's fairly easy=
to figure out where they need to be added. It is suggested=
that you add the hitch pins BEFORE ordering the strings, so that=
all dimensions of tails, winding start/finish, will be correct.=
</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>You may be able to get all this=
info, plus the exact strings, from Yamaha, but I don't know=
wether they consider this an "antique" piano and would want to=
be bothered. They do have all of the information, as I presented=
it, hopefully. After all they did pay me to do the research on=
it.<G> Since that time they used the info on their next=
version of the GH-1 and then for some darned reason, changed it=
two more times, (not for the better, either,=
IMHO)!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>One big caution: The original=
GH-1 had little or not support beams, so the piano is really=
squirrely! Remove only the absolute minimum strings to access=
the area for hitch pins etc.! It will go 20+ cents sharp when=
you do this! Not to worry. Once you have the new strings on and=
tuned, the darned thing will go right back to pitch, (pre-work=
pitch)! Go figger.<G></EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><EM>Once the work is done, you'll=
probably have to correct the "voicing" that was previously, (and=
to no avail), done, in that section. Once that is taken care of,=
you'll love how nice that "transition" can be, for a small=
piano.</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><EM></EM> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Hmmmm, you'd likely notice a significant=
improvement in the transtion, but to experience "how nice" a=
transition can be, you'd want to consider adding a transition=
bridge - or more!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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size=2><EM></EM></FONT></FONT> </DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></H=
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