<html> At 09:29 AM 10/14/2001 -0400, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite cite>List, Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine. The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide and some use a sanding disc. What's the consensus out there? Also what is the keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to using acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred. So bring it on.  Would be interested in your comments on learning the tricks of the trade. Tom Servinsky,RPT</blockquote> For glue, I use PVC-E. This makes a flexible joint to allow for the different expansion and contraction rates of the joined materials. Melting the keytop to the keystick with the acetone/plastic mixture may cause the keytop to crack when the wood expands with a humidity increase while the plastic remains rigid. The PVC-E glue also wipes off the surface without etching. I prefer routing or filing the edges over the sanding disc. It is too easy to remove too much material with a sander. Regards, Jon Page,   piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. <a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</a>jonpage2001<a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</a> <a href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</a> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</html>