<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000040" SIZE=2 FAMILY=
="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0">In a message dated 8/30/2003 =
2:51:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
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style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="A=
rial" LANG="0">I was thinking that I should be using Titebond Extend. Or l=
iquid (cold) hide glue. What are thoughts on the good ol' hide glue - it has=
lots of working time - ribs and panels are not for underwater work, are the=
y?<BR>
<BR>
Terry Farrell<BR>
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FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0"><BR>
I know there are variety of opinions on this but if you get fresh col=
d hide thats not out of date it is a very strong glue. Its working time is q=
uite long and when it is set and cured which granted does take some time (wh=
ich is why your using it) it is narly stuff to get apart. <BR>
It is also reversible for the next guy who ha=
s to get the board out of the piano or Maybe you. Can you imagine having to =
clean a rim joint that was coated with tight bond, bulduc or some other kind=
of glue? What a headache. Its obvious that modern wood glues have str=
ength that cold or hot hide doesn,t but it always amazes me how solidly our =
antiquated pianos have hung ( and some not)together with animal colagen comp=
ound. Imagine how much more difficult it would be to remove key bushings,gui=
de rail bushings, key buttons,hammershanks, soundboards,pinblocks etc for re=
pairs if the glue wasn't as reversible and workable as hide glue. Just a tho=
ught in that direction. <BR>
Dale Erwin</FONT></HTML>