<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2802" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>How about a grand flange, I believe they are flat? </FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>You could cut to size, and use sandpaper to stabilize the side to side motion.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:39 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Brass Rail to Wood Flange Conversion</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I checked out the action center position pretty closely before making this conversion. I just double-checked it with the original setup again (not that I had ANY doubts!  ;-). It is real close to original - if anything a quarter of a millimeter low, so I really don't want to lower it any more.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT size=3>However, I did incorporate some of Ron's suggestion (although not the heart of his suggestion) - I ran a length of #17-</FONT>1/2<FONT size=3> music wire along the bottom side of the flange screw (nice snug fit) and kept the upper brass rod.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I have to admit that I still like the idea of having the full height of the flange intimately contacting the action rail. If nothing else, it will likely make me sleep better at night....</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>BTW: What kind of flange does is completely flat on the back side - no cut-out?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:004b01c62a63$127e3df0$6400a8c0@Ross" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:004c01c62a63$127e3df0$6400a8c0@Ross" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> As I'm watching this thread, I wonder: have you checked the geometry of the flange and butt with the wippen and key in place??<BR>> Is it possible that the action center is a little high, and that you could just run the rail through a table saw and cut the bottom of the flange rabbet a little lower?<BR>> <BR>> Ed Sutton<BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>>> I think I'd have considered this. Seems easier, and might not even <BR>>>> need the maple addition - "just" a different set of flanges. Lots of <BR>>>> ways to get there, it seems.<BR>>>><BR>>>> Ron N</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>