<html> The cord in question is similar to the cord which operates the blinds on your windows. It is a multi strand core with a woven covering. To facilitate the threading of the cord in the flange, it is necessary to attenuate the leading edge. This is accomplished by the method described be Bill Spurlock: (paraphrasing:) Peel back the covering a bit and pull a few strands out 1/2" or so. Pull the entire group of strands out another 2". While securing this end of the covering and strands, slide you hand along the covering to allow the other end to extend beyond the strands. This will produce a narrow leader to thread through the flange. The reason to pull a few strands through first is to allow a gradient to the cord substrate. Pull the covering tightly and apply CA or hot glue to solidify the narrowed covering. (spring clamps at each end and hang until dry). Trim accordingly. Regards, Jon Page At 10:22 PM 09/26/2001 -0400, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite cite>One last question Roger. Thank you to all who have helped me this this project. I know it will all turn out A-1 now! Roger said: > Just make sure you have the wover jacket type cord. (WOVEN jacket cord?) As opposed to what kind of cord? And what size do you drill the hole in the flange reletive to the cord (my flanges had the metal center pins)? I would assume just the "right" size?  Just to make it nice and snug, but not requiring desruction of the flange when trying to pull it through, i.e. just snug enough so that it won't fall out? Thanks. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "jolly roger" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 8:36 PM Subject: Re: Damper Lever Rebuild (tad long) > > OK Terry, >                I'll bite.  <G>  Can't you ever ask simple questions? > > > > >1) Damper spring flange cord. What is the best way to remove it? I tried > >pushing it through - just jammed up in the spring area and......(flange is > >now in vice with tite-bond). Is there a handy way to pull it through? Or > >should it be cut with a razor at the spring and then pushed? I did take the > >steel center pin out first (I assume that is the way to start at least). > > Two slices with a razor and the spring falls out, then just use a pointed > object and push out the stuff in the hole.  Simple, done. > > > >2) The cord in the one flange I have removed appears to not have been glued > >in place - is this OK to reproduce when installing the new cord? > > Ain't meant to be glued.   Put glue on the cord and listen to the spring > click like mad.  Create you own special percussion section. > The spring will not go any where if you have a snog fit with the cord. > Just make sure you have the wover jacket type cord. > > > >3) Should the new cord simply be pulled through and cut to length? If it is > >not glued in, is it not going to crunch up inside when I try to install > >center pin? Is there some procedural trick to getting new cord and pin in? > >Or should I glue it in regardless of whether it was originally glued in or > >not? > > Now just push the woven sleeve of the cord back, to expose about 2" of > core,  snip the core.  Now stretch the sleeve out over the core. twirl the > end and apply CA glue on the first inch.  This will give you a nice stiff > needle like end to thread through the holes and spring coil.   Pull through > and trim the ends with a sharp razor.   Done.   You don't need a centre pin > on most damper levers. > > > >4) There is a creased little round piece of felt/cloth at the lever top > >where the top of the spring rubs against the lever. Some levers do not have > >cloth, instead they have a direct wire-to-graphited wood contact. Do I need > >the felt/cloth? Can I just remove it and put some dag on the groove in > >lever? If it is best to replace felt/cloth, what should it be replaced with? > >I do not find any such identified thing in the catalogs. > > The supply houses sell those punchings.  But you have to get rid of the > graphite first as the glue will not stick. The felt will give quieter > trouble free operation.  But dag will aso work, remember to burnish it in, > or it will squeek. > > > >5) What kind of felt/cloth is used at the bottom of the lever where the > >damper lift rod and damper spoons push against the damper lever? > > Action cloth or wippen cloth, it is sold in about 5 thicknesses.  So make > sure you have the right material or you can end up with major timing > problems. Dusting with teflon powder is a good idea.  When gluing the new > action cloth, a little dab at each end.  No glue under the rod contact > point.  Quieter operation. > > > > >6) What kind of bushing felt/cloth should be used in the damper lift rod > >bushing holder thingees? Is there any source for older style bushing holder > >thingees? I know they have the newer ones in the catalogs, but I will have > >to chisel/rout a new spot for these if I need to convert. My original ones > >have a round base and appear to be made of copper or brass. > > These are the best type so keep them, rebush with key bushing cloth.  Melt > parafine wax into the bushing, it will never squeek again. > I do not glue the bushings in.   I just leave a collar and push it on to > the damper rod hanger, after the melted wax has been applied, this will > size the bushing for you. Remove and trim off excess with a very sharp > razor.  A little trick, push part way on to the hanger, trim end, the > reverse the bushing and trim the other end.  That way the bushing will not > want to pull out. > It's a good idea to lay the rod on a flat surface to may sure all the > hangers are in a straight line.  Can save a lot of grief later when you > find one end lifting earlier than the other. > > > > >I know cloth is woven. How does felt differ? How to tell the difference when > >examining old cloth/felt? > > I have a preference for the woven felt with a whitish weave. > > With regards to your customer, warn her that you may be replacing the > damper felt when you restring. > > Hope you this useful. > Roger > ></blockquote></html>