<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF"> And further more ... how do you route the long edge if it is riddled with recessed weights. Nothing for the router bit bearing to ride on you know. Thanks for the topic Tom. Greg Tom Servinsky wrote: <blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style> List,Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide and some use a sanding disc.What's the consensus out there?Also what is the keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to using acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred.So bring it on.  Would be interested in your comments on learning the tricks of the trade.Tom Servinsky,RPT <blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----</div> <div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">From: <a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" title="jonpage2001@mediaone.net">Jon Page</a></div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title="pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a></div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM</div> <div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Subject: Re: Planer and keytops</div>  At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote: <blockquote cite type="cite">For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary planer in a radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters, while the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways forces much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...). Most RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered. Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out I grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing clearance by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. Feed slow, should work fine. Adjustable parallels for set up. > electric planer Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, there's so little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to invite disaster. Clark</blockquote> What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it leaves at the end of the plastic. A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough material for the new keytop to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job. Regards,   Jon Page,   piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. <a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</a>jonpage2001<a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</a> <a href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</a> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</blockquote> </blockquote> -- Greg Newell <A HREF="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</A>   </body> </html>