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<DIV><FONT size=2>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2> I use contact glue (like Bostick) with the =
keys sanded
and prepared just put on the glue for two octaves of keys at a time, =
keep the
keytops joined until after the glue is applied then break and separate =
them just
before sticking. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Contact glue gives you about 15 -20 before putting =
the two
surfaces together and doesn't need clamping other than a squeeze in a =
vice (with
some felt to protect). Go on to glue next couple of octaves and =
then</FONT><FONT
size=2> have a new second cut file to shape edges, keep that file just =
for
keys.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Allow half a day.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Brian</DIV></FONT><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mickeykes2@uf.znet.com =
href="mailto:mickeykes2@uf.znet.com">Mickey
Kessler</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, February 13, =
2003 3:10
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Replacing =
Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3>Sorry -- some trouble with Eudora -- =
sent this out
a moment ago without a subject header. Sorry for the
double-posting. Hope it works this time!<BR><BR>Hi =
all,<BR><BR>I'm
considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO owned by my =
cousin. If
this were a really good instrument I'd probably just send the keys out =
to a
recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing over to somebody =
who's
really into rebuilding, which I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or =
rather,
an opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for the =
experience.<BR><BR>A
few questions:<BR><BR>1. Reblitz describes a procedure that's =
based on
using contact cement. This scares me; it doesn't allow for much
error. On the other hand, if I use more forgiving glue, it'll =
require
clamping, which the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to =
shim a
straightedge to the keyslip in order to line up all the keyfronts =
exactly the
same). Can anybody recommend a better procedure that will also =
ensure
uniformity? And while we're on the subject, what's the best glue =
to
use?<BR><BR>2. The supply houses sell a variety of =
keytops. Any
preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts as opposed to =
two-piece?
I'm thinking now that I'll use the one-piece. Am I asking for =
trouble?
Would I learn more by using two-piece? Should I get thick or =
thin or
doesn't it matter? Do the one-piece tops require clamping in two =
directions?<BR><BR>3. Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the =
wood? Can I do that without the expensive Oslund machines that =
Reblitz
describes? How bad must the surface be before it should be
resurfaced? I'm guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a =
lot of
unevenness -- am I wrong?<BR><BR>4. Any thoughts about how much =
time I
should allot for the job?<BR><BR>Thanks to everybody out there for =
sharing all
your knowledge. I've learned more from this group than from just =
about
any other source. The generosity of this profession is truly
admirable.<BR><BR>Mickey Kessler<BR>PTG
Assoc.<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>