<html> <body> Chris - How about some derisive comments of support?  Why do you say that "normally" you would CA'um?  I'm thinking that maybe the appropriate application of this process has been misunderstood.  CA should be a last resort, as I see it.  A little more information would allow more specific response.  For example, do these look like the original pins?  What size are they?  Would driving them cause any problem in the angle of the string coming off the tuning pin, in the bass?  Is there any sign of any separation between block and back? It's important not to over-drive the pins, as you might then create excessive torque.  Also, you should be able to tell from the sound and feel of the hammer hitting the driving punch whether the pins have already bottomed in the hole. Try a few.  A tool to measure the torque (torque wrench) is not a bad item to have, but not cheap.  Schaff has one (actually it's in the Apsco Catalog) and Pianotek has a fancier one. Sorry, I couldn't work up derision today. David Skolnik At 09:39 AM 10/27/2004 -0700, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>I've got a customer with loose tuning pins (well, I mean her piano, of course).  It's an old upright piano of nominal value.  Normally I would not drive the tuning pins to correct this, I would do the CA glue thing (unless there are indications of a more serious problem).  But in this case I am considering driving 'em, because:   1) The tuning pins are really high (about 1 inch), and there is lots of room between the coils and the plate.   2) All the pins in the piano seem to have about the same torque.  So that makes me think that I'm not seeing a cracked pinblock problem.      Comments, support, or derision please.   Chris Henke Portland, Oregon</blockquote></body> </html>