<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: = Arial" bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT id=rol= e_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 11/19/2004 6:53:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinsp= iano writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><= FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size= =2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 11/19/2004 6:47:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"= ><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 siz= e=2> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p; Damperfiles</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;  I just finished up the upgraded S&S grand damper  system & it= works slick. I can set the individual key lift as precisely as I wish &a= mp; then dial in the tray lift without the usual futzing with paper & such. Damper pedal lift is readily touch-up-able which is real= ly cool & you can dial in a perfect  lift in minutes after the dam= pers seat. </FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;   Also I matched the original leading pattern & recycled the felt spri= ng blocks & remounted them to the new lever in the original location in the old springs on the underlevers. This moves the spring back & prevents it from hitting the bottom of the upstop which the new spring slots approach interference</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;   I was having a bit trouble with nice clean damping shut off in the= bi-chords. I typically use the Tokiwa damper sets which I like but even = with wide bichord agraffes in the lowest 4 bichord notes I had too much ring = thru & not enough felt penetration of the tip of the felt into the string= pair.</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;To remdy this I pulled the bichord heads all out & pinched the= nose of the felt to slip thru the strings a bit more <STRONG><U>& voile.</U> Clean sounding shut off.</STRONG> I got to wondering if some = of you are using the same felt. I think the French felt Loreux might have a= finer profile on the tip. </FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  It also great to be able to precisely set the= upstop for one position</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;   Any way Skinned a new cat. Hope that''s OK with the dog</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;  Thanksgiving blessings on you all</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color= =#000000 size=2><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial colo= r=#000000 size=2><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><FONT size=3>&nbs= p;  Dale</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px soli= d"> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px so= lid"> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#0000= 00 size=3> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>   </FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV><FONT size=4>   List</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=3><FONT size=3>I've been modifying many o= f  old Steinway damper systems with a variety of features which great= ly improves its functionability & adjustability.</FONT><FONT size=3> Many of these ideas are not my own but have fo= und them useful just the same.<STRONG>grin.</STRONG> I've been install= ing the new Renner Back actions fairly routinely which gives a more effective sostenuto usage with the spring loaded tabs & also t= he fact that individual parts can be taken off for service if necessa= ry without disassembling the whole dang damper action I.E. to re= glue some flanges that have come unglued or repin a part or two.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   Along with  this I= 've also found that a few other modifications which are not difficult = to execute also increase performance.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3> ! Installing the tray center pivot pin s= o it is in line with the underlever centers. This requires modifying or= making a new pivot block for at least one end.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  Result. 1.This eliminates the disparity= of function in the upstop adjustment. Meaning an upstop adjustment is= made which is equally good for pedal lift as is it is for individu= al key lift.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  2. the heavy pedal syndrome is mad= e more normal by reducing weight & friction felt on the pedal & eliminates much of the damper thumping on the strings by less experienced players</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  3. Eliminates the severe dipping of the= underlevers when the tray is out of adjustment that digs out the k= ey lift felt with extra friction caused by the out of adjustment.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  4. removing wooden or brass pedal pitma= ns that (always) squeak. This requires drilling an enlarged hole= thru the keybed 3/4" or so & installing a wooden dowel with 3/= 4" front punchings glued to each end & a balance rail pin installed and protruding 3/16  inch out of the dowel. Th= e tray & pedal lever are drilled to accommodate the felt & pin  </FONT></FONT><FONT size=3> The result is a total= ly quiet squeak-free movement</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#0000= 00 size=3> <DIV><FONT size=3> 5. Install a new set of Modern adjustabl= e pedal rods. What a blessing. See pianotek</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3> 6. Install a capstan as a sustain p= edal lever travel limiter on the bottom of the keybed. This removes the= archaic block of felt method formerly employed on all Stwy pianos,= & others of course & allows for a precise amount of damper= lift& lever travel. A nice feature which keeps the underlevers from slamming into the upstop felt creating those anno= ying dents which reduce function.</FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"> <DIV> 7.  <FONT size=3>relocate tray return springs. I= n these pianos either a leaf spring type was used in the top treble = end of the tray or in later models a coil spring was applied  on the bass end of the tray causing the tray to= warp.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV>   <FONT size=3>The new springs are fit betwee= n the lever sections. One is mounted close to the pitman which is where it= needs to be to keep the tray from being twisted during lift,resulting in a strange array of damper lift setting proble= ms & eventual tray warpage. Some systems require another mounted between bass and tenor sections.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3> 8. The last thing which is new to me came = about because of a conversation with David Love about this. Del had done a= tray for him this way & I'd heard about others doing this so...</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>    I mounted small11/32inch long= capstans under each underlever. This allows for a very precise &= perfect damper lift without all the usual futzing and straining to m= ove a lever in the flange just the tiniest fraction of a mm/or inch= for standard folks.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  The lip of the tray needs to be thin= ned by about 3 mm to allow for capstan head clearance. A quick pass on the table saw does this in a second. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  Drill the appropriate size hole for the c= apstan shank & press with arbor press or Tap in carefully with a hammer with the tray supported really well</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>8. Installing the extra wide bichord agraffes fr= om Pianotek on the lowest 4 bichords increase the ability of the bichor= d felt to get between the large bichord bass strings which really improves damping.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3> 9 On many pianos, especially longer ones I= also find improved damping by using four equally cut pieces of damper fel= t in the mono- chord section & on the first 2 to 4 bichord notes. Thi= s is especially helpful on longer strings & also on smaller  pianos on which I have had all my mono chords double wrapped b= y the string maker.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  An Addendum.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   Some later stwys , 1950 ish & l= ater came <STRONG><U>without return springs</U></STRONG>. I've learned th= is the hard way, ( of course), that these need springs especially in th= e bass. This is my humble opinion based on failure to damp experience,= even with proper fitted guide rail bushings & nicely fit wires, = head lift etc.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  These upgraded systems are a huge improve= ment over the original equipment setup IMHO and are not difficult to do. = It does increase labor time but it's worth it</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  Hope this is food for thought and comment.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" PTSIZE="10">Erwins Pianos Restorations <BR>4721 Parker Rd.<BR>Mode= sto, Ca 95357<BR>209-577-8397<BR>Rebuilt Steinway , Mason &Hamlin Sales<BR>www.Erwinspiano.com</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><= /FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>