<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" = http-equiv=Content-Type> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.3105.105" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT size=2>Greg,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>That was one of reasons for the inquiry. The = laminate router bit will follow the key nicely. However, as you have pointed out, when = key lead weights cause irregularities in the key itself, that will transfer to = your beautiful new keytop.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Tom Servinsky,RPT</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net" = title=gnewell@ameritech.net>Greg Newell</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, October 14, 2001 = 11:17 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Keytop routing techniques</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV>And further more ... how do you route the long edge if = it is riddled with recessed weights. Nothing for the router bit bearing to = ride on you know. Thanks for the topic Tom. <P>Greg <P>Tom Servinsky wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE="CITE"> <STYLE></STYLE> <FONT size=-1>List,</FONT><FONT size=-1>Since the thread has = been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just started doing my own keytops = with the aid of an Olsland machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer = and the notching machine.</FONT><FONT size=-1>The question I have is seems = to be finding the safest and best way to route down the the long edges. = Some use a laminate router bit with guide and some use a sanding = disc.</FONT><FONT size=-1>What's the consensus out there?</FONT><FONT size=-1>Also = what is the keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to using acetone and = a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity = consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere near the = surface of the key or the finish will be marred.</FONT><FONT size=-1>So bring = it on.  Would be interested in your comments on learning the = tricks of the trade.</FONT><FONT size=-1>Tom Servinsky,RPT</FONT> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" title=jonpage2001@mediaone.net>Jon Page</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 13, = 2001 10:20 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Planer and keytops</DIV> <FONT size=+0>At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, = you wrote:</FONT> <BLOCKQUOTE type="cite" cite><FONT size=+0>For most = thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary planer in a</FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0>radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has = carbide cutters, while</FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0>the radial saw is faster, more = powerful and can stand sideways forces</FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0>much = better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...). Most</FONT> = <BR><FONT size=+0>RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've = encountered.</FONT> <P><FONT size=+0>Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to = jobs, anticipating tear out I</FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0>grind an = angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing clearance</FONT> = <BR><FONT size=+0>by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to = help. Feed slow,</FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0>should work fine.</FONT> <P><FONT size=+0>Adjustable parallels for set up.</FONT> <P><FONT size=+0>> electric planer</FONT> <P><FONT size=+0>Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it = would work as such, there's so</FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0>little surface, and = planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds to</FONT> <BR><FONT = size=+0>invite disaster.</FONT> <BR><FONT = size=+0>Clark</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE> <P><BR>What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the = kerf it leaves at the end of the plastic. <BR>A router bit or rotary = planer can be set to remove only enough material for the new keytop <BR>to be = installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job. <P>Regards, <BR>  <P><FONT size=+0>Jon Page,   piano technician</FONT> = <BR><FONT size=+0>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.</FONT> <BR><FONT = size=+0><A href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</A>jonpage2001<A href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</A></FONT> <BR><FONT size=+0><A = href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</A></FONT> = <BR><FONT = size=+0>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE= ></BLOCKQUOTE> <P>-- <BR>Greg Newell <BR><A href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</A> = <BR>  </P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>