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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Mike, I do the same thing. I will also do it =
that way
sometimes on a wooden flange before I push the pin through the flange =
(usually
at the beginning of the process when I am calibrating reaming, etc.). =
FWIW
though, one thing I have noticed is that to get the four or five swings =
(or
whatever your target is) with the flange in place, you will typically =
need to
see only two or three swings without the flange but just holding the =
pin. Hard
to imagine exactly why this discrepancy exists. Perhaps there is a =
bit of
friction between the side of the wooden flange and the side of the =
butt/shank.
So somehow, you might want to incorporate a potential friction =
discrepancy
between the two methods - who knows, maybe it is only on a wooden flange =
and it
won't occur on a brass rail.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Another way around this is to convert the brass =
rail to
wooden flanges. ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From: "Michael Spalding" <</FONT><A
href="mailto:spalding48@earthlink.net"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>spalding48@earthlink.net</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>To: "</FONT><A
href="mailto:joey@onkeypianotuning.com"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>joey@onkeypianotuning.com</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>, Pianotech"
<</FONT><A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>pianotech@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 7:45 =
PM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Subject: RE: Brass Rail =
Tension</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><BR><FONT size=2></FONT></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>> Joey,<BR>> <BR>> While fitting the pin, (i.e. before =
the pin
has been clipped to length) you<BR>> can slip the pin into one or =
both sides
of the bushed butt and, holding the<BR>> protruding end of the pin, =
swing the
hammer. One bushing at a time lets<BR>> you equalise the fit =
between
the two sides. No way I know of to put a gram<BR>> scale on it, =
but you
quickly get a feel for the right amount of friction.<BR>> <BR>>
Mike<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > [Original Message]<BR>> > =
From: Joey
Recker <</FONT><A href="mailto:joey@onkeypianotuning.com"><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>joey@onkeypianotuning.com</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>><BR>>
> To: Pianotech <</FONT><A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><FONT =
face=Arial size=2>pianotech@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial
size=2>><BR>> > Date: 10/13/2003 6:15:57 PM<BR>> > =
Subject: Brass
Rail Tension<BR>> ><BR>> > How do I check the tension for =
center
pins in a brass rail?<BR>> ><BR>> > I'm working on a 1907 M. =
Schulz
upright. It has a brass rail. Most of<BR>> > the =
hammers are
sluggish. No sign of vertigris etc... <BR>> ><BR>> =
>
I've started re-pinning the hammer butts (had to rebush a few that =
have<BR>>
> come apart during the process). I'm familiar with checking the
tension<BR>> > on items with wood flanges. But on the brass =
rail I'm
having to install<BR>> > the hammer, check the tension, re-pin, =
re-bush,
ream or burnish,<BR>> > re-install, try again, etc... =
After
many tries, many of them just<BR>> > don't seem to be getting any
better. Any tricks of the trade?<BR>> ><BR>> > I'm =
having a
hard time with this one. (But, like daddy said, "If =
it<BR>> >
was easy, everyone would do it!").<BR>> ><BR>> > Any
suggestions?<BR>> ><BR>> > Joey Recker <BR>> =
><BR>>
> _______________________________________________<BR>> > =
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