<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=windows-1252"> <META content="MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV>"Is a Dampp-Chaser going to stop the piano from being damaged, = seizing up, rusting etc? "</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Properly sized and installed, it should.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>"What does one charge for installing them?"</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I put a 100% markup on parts and figure 45 minutes = installation for the first rod and humidistat, and then 15 minutes per additional rod. I = take a bit longer than some folks, but I put all rods above the bottom of the frame-work under the piano (except the one rod that goes at rear of = keybed). I also cut and custom fit each power wire - there are no bunched-up cords = or danglers with my installations - I crimp all custom cut wires together - = no bunches of plugs, etc.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>"What is there expected lifespan?"</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I realize nothing lasts forever, but I think these things last = a LONG, LONG, LONG time. I should think the rods should last many decades. The humidistats I don't know, but the Dampp-Chaser = folks claim they virtually never have failures with the humidistats.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>In a real humid room, I recommend starting with your 50W rod along = the back of the keybed and at least one extending from the keybed rear to the = back of the piano. DC has a new plastic (mylar?) sheet for covering the bottom of = the piano - sounds like it might be appropriate for this installation. Install, = turn on, AND MONITOR SYSTEM FOR SOME PERIOD OF TIME WHEN HUMIDITY IS HIGH. = Do this by plugging an old-fashioned electric clock (one that plugs into the = wall and has arm that go around in circle - no digital clocks) into the = humidistat, along with your system of rods. Let it go for 12, 24, or however many hours = (maybe you will need to have the piano owner call you every 12 hours and report the = time on the clock). This will let you know if your system is underpowered, = overpowered, or OK. If, during times of high humidity (also monitor RH of room), the = system is only on for 1 hour during a 24-hour period, your system is = overpowered. If it never turns off, your system is underpowered (keep adding rods = until it turns off - spread them around under piano). If it turns off, even for a = short period of time, you have your system just right.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>If it is really humid down there, and you have action/key problems = that are related to humidity, you might want to consider a separate system for = inside the action and/or under the keybed - but only if you have humidity related = problems in those areas.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>This is how I did my piano at home. I do not install the = humidifiers in my Florida installations. I have about 175 watts of rods under my = 178 cm Boston (1 - 50W, 2 - 37W, 2 - 25W rods). The RH in the room often gets = up around 75%. When RH is that high, the system runs about 90% of the time (I do = not have the mylar cover under the piano). When RH in the room is at its lowest, = around 35%, the system is never on. I have let the piano go for about 15 months = now, and there is not a note more than 2 cents from where I set it 15 months = ago - it has been absolutely rock solid.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Those nice wool blankets for over the plate/strings will make any = system work much better. I do not have one on my piano - although I do keep the = lid closed 95% of the time - I open it sometimes when my wife is = playing.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>All the above is, of course, simply what I have done and what I = would do. I am not an electrical engineer. It may not be the best advice. But it = works for me.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Terry Farrell <SPAN = id=__#Ath#SignaturePos__></SPAN> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=ptizzard@mweb.co.za = href="mailto:ptizzard@mweb.co.za">Paul Tizzard</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 01, 2002 = 9:39 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Dampp-Chaser.</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Hi List,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Living in a climate where Damp-Chaser's are not that prevalent, I = need some advice.</DIV> <DIV>A client of mine has a Baby Grand(Hopkins-English piano) in a = basement of sorts. I say " of sorts " because it is not your typical basement. It = is basically a room carved out of rock, on which the rest of = the house is built. The problem is that the room is incredibly damp. I have told = her that we should move the piano elsewhere, but she really does not want to(no = space!).</DIV> <DIV>My question: Is a Dampp-Chaser going to stop the piano from = being damaged, seizing up, rusting etc? What does one charge for installing = them? What is there expected lifespan?</DIV> <DIV>Any info and/or suggestions would be appreciated.</DIV> <DIV>Thanks.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul Tizzard</DIV> <DIV>Cape Town</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>